So I have an amazing Macomber loom it came with a sectional warp beam, and I was wondering when do I actually use the sectional warp beam. I always just use the warp beam.
For ease of warping, a sectional beam uses extra equipment. If you are warping lots of colors, a warping creel/spool rack helps. Then, the threads are run thru a tensioning device- heck box or tension box- and wound directly onto a section at a time. You can make simple bouts and try to wind on, but tension is important, and each section needs to be the same. If you have a warping reel or swift with a brake, you can use that to create even tension as you wind directly onto each section. I use an AVL Warping Wheel that effectively is a swift with a brake. The reason to use a sectional beam is that it creates a warp with better tension, which is very important when you are using some high end threads, like linen or silk, or stretchy yarns like knitting yarns.
I have 4 looms with sectional beams, which I love. I simply wrap 2" warps for each 2" section on my warping reel. I then transfer the section to itself section and secure in place with a straight pin. No need for extra equipment.
I also mentor elderly weavers on 7 Macombers, they have spools and all the extra equipment (spool rack, tension box, etc). We use the spools when the warp is one color, but threading without a cross can be a challenge.
Check out Peggy Osterkamp's Weaving For Beginners, she has great information 👍
The reason to use a sectional beam is that it creates a warp with better tension
I thought the main benefit is the ability to fit a very long warp on the beam, since you don’t have the added thickness that would come from several layers of warp sticks. I haven’t heard that it would make a difference in the tension. I’m curious, can you elaborate on that? I’ve been toying with the idea of getting a sectional beam, but so far the cons have outweighed the pros for me. I’m always on the lookout for new information that might change my mind, though.
I have a set of flanges made for my plain beam, yet I still use the sectionals on all looms with one. My sections are 1 in, so I make a lot of 1 in sections
My 2 cents - a sectional warp beam is perfect if you need to put on a lot of warp - We're talking 20-30 yards or more. Those sectional pieces help to hold the warp in place, because without proper support 30 yards of warp will slowly start to slide to the edges, and that will mess up your warp tension. If you are interested in just making 2 scarves or towles or whatever, a standard non-sectional beam also works just fine, and in sime cases will be a lot easier to work with. Some people like to use sectional beams as a good way to spread a warp, but a raddle or pre-sleying can also do that job. If you are hoping to be a production weaver, that sectional beam will really come in handy.
Warp sticks will fix that. But for very long warps you would need several layers of them and the added thickness can get cumbersome, which is why a sectional beam is better beyond a certain length.
Just make sure, if you do a long warp, that you have the same number of threads in each section, or you will run into issues with tension as you weave.
I work exclusively with 18th and 19th century barn looms and teach on them as well. Back in that day and age, to the best of my knowledge, there were no sectional beams, yet home weavers were known to beam on 50 yard warps. I also have and have used ( though I do not any longer ) vintage looms with sectional beams. As someone else pointed out, you need extra equipment and usually, multiple spools, but it can be fast and easy to do. I don't have a problem at all with looms with sectional warp beams. It's just that I've decided to preserve and use the Early American hand looms exclusively. When to use the sectional is entirely up to you. Short warps or long, its an efficient method if you choose.
For ease of warping, a sectional beam uses extra equipment. If you are warping lots of colors, a warping creel/spool rack helps. Then, the threads are run thru a tensioning device- heck box or tension box- and wound directly onto a section at a time. You can make simple bouts and try to wind on, but tension is important, and each section needs to be the same. If you have a warping reel or swift with a brake, you can use that to create even tension as you wind directly onto each section. I use an AVL Warping Wheel that effectively is a swift with a brake. The reason to use a sectional beam is that it creates a warp with better tension, which is very important when you are using some high end threads, like linen or silk, or stretchy yarns like knitting yarns.
I have 4 looms with sectional beams, which I love. I simply wrap 2" warps for each 2" section on my warping reel. I then transfer the section to itself section and secure in place with a straight pin. No need for extra equipment.
I also mentor elderly weavers on 7 Macombers, they have spools and all the extra equipment (spool rack, tension box, etc). We use the spools when the warp is one color, but threading without a cross can be a challenge.
Check out Peggy Osterkamp's Weaving For Beginners, she has great information 👍
Thanks I’ll take a look 😁
Thanks I appreciate it
I thought the main benefit is the ability to fit a very long warp on the beam, since you don’t have the added thickness that would come from several layers of warp sticks. I haven’t heard that it would make a difference in the tension. I’m curious, can you elaborate on that? I’ve been toying with the idea of getting a sectional beam, but so far the cons have outweighed the pros for me. I’m always on the lookout for new information that might change my mind, though.
I have a set of flanges made for my plain beam, yet I still use the sectionals on all looms with one. My sections are 1 in, so I make a lot of 1 in sections
My 2 cents - a sectional warp beam is perfect if you need to put on a lot of warp - We're talking 20-30 yards or more. Those sectional pieces help to hold the warp in place, because without proper support 30 yards of warp will slowly start to slide to the edges, and that will mess up your warp tension. If you are interested in just making 2 scarves or towles or whatever, a standard non-sectional beam also works just fine, and in sime cases will be a lot easier to work with. Some people like to use sectional beams as a good way to spread a warp, but a raddle or pre-sleying can also do that job. If you are hoping to be a production weaver, that sectional beam will really come in handy.
Thanks that actually makes a lot of sense and explains why my edges over the 4yd line keeps on slipping
Warp sticks will fix that. But for very long warps you would need several layers of them and the added thickness can get cumbersome, which is why a sectional beam is better beyond a certain length.
Just make sure, if you do a long warp, that you have the same number of threads in each section, or you will run into issues with tension as you weave.
Good to know thank you
I work exclusively with 18th and 19th century barn looms and teach on them as well. Back in that day and age, to the best of my knowledge, there were no sectional beams, yet home weavers were known to beam on 50 yard warps. I also have and have used ( though I do not any longer ) vintage looms with sectional beams. As someone else pointed out, you need extra equipment and usually, multiple spools, but it can be fast and easy to do. I don't have a problem at all with looms with sectional warp beams. It's just that I've decided to preserve and use the Early American hand looms exclusively. When to use the sectional is entirely up to you. Short warps or long, its an efficient method if you choose.