I find myself doing that to a lot of lights. Now that I no longer have access to a lathe, I usually wind up doing it the hard way; fine-grit sandpaper on a flat surface and lapping it down.
The "Hand of God" level of torque some think it needs seems like a lot of folks have weak hands though, since the TS10 is not one of the lights I've had that issue with. Mostly Firefly, and couple of Emisar D2's, but not the TS10 or KR4 that have so many people buying strap wrenches.
There was plenty of thread left to screw the cap tighter, it was just too long so at full tightness it wasn’t a reliable connection. I imagine if I took more I would be able to gently tighten it up to good contact
It sucks that so many lights have the head or tailcap bottom out the perimeter before they make solid contact with the ring by bottoming out the threads. I mean, I get that they dont' want a 0.2mm gap that makes people complain, but I'll gladly take a hairline too narrow to even stick a fingernail in if it makes the difference between the light working or not.
TS10s have an additional issue with the signal tube that the KR4 sidesteps with a spring and the KR1AA avoids by simply having good tolerances.
Yeah, the threads have plenty of travel left, my cap still sits flush with material removed. I wouldn’t mind a gap if it was managed with a small chamfer
I just realized something... my KR1AA is raw aluminum. Anodization is thin, but still non-zero thickness. A fraction of a millimeter. About what I knocked off of my D2's to make them more reliable.
My reliability problems turned out to be very fine strands of copper shaved off by the titanium threads causing shorts.
It's kind of an ongoing problem; it happens every few times I remove the battery to charge it. Can't find any burrs on the titanium threads that might be causing it.
Measure once, cut twice lol
Nice mod!
Absolutely, cut, test, repeat until issue disappears
I find myself doing that to a lot of lights. Now that I no longer have access to a lathe, I usually wind up doing it the hard way; fine-grit sandpaper on a flat surface and lapping it down.
The "Hand of God" level of torque some think it needs seems like a lot of folks have weak hands though, since the TS10 is not one of the lights I've had that issue with. Mostly Firefly, and couple of Emisar D2's, but not the TS10 or KR4 that have so many people buying strap wrenches.
There was plenty of thread left to screw the cap tighter, it was just too long so at full tightness it wasn’t a reliable connection. I imagine if I took more I would be able to gently tighten it up to good contact
It sucks that so many lights have the head or tailcap bottom out the perimeter before they make solid contact with the ring by bottoming out the threads. I mean, I get that they dont' want a 0.2mm gap that makes people complain, but I'll gladly take a hairline too narrow to even stick a fingernail in if it makes the difference between the light working or not.
TS10s have an additional issue with the signal tube that the KR4 sidesteps with a spring and the KR1AA avoids by simply having good tolerances.
Yeah, the threads have plenty of travel left, my cap still sits flush with material removed. I wouldn’t mind a gap if it was managed with a small chamfer
I just realized something... my KR1AA is raw aluminum. Anodization is thin, but still non-zero thickness. A fraction of a millimeter. About what I knocked off of my D2's to make them more reliable.
My reliability problems turned out to be very fine strands of copper shaved off by the titanium threads causing shorts.
It's kind of an ongoing problem; it happens every few times I remove the battery to charge it. Can't find any burrs on the titanium threads that might be causing it.