Thats kind of the point of Durabond though. When you got a pre-fill like this, there is nothing better. If you are sanding Durabond, you are not doing it right.
Point taken. I usually just use a 90 minute Sheetrock brand. But for a fill I can see the application. I had a customer purchased turban to utilize for a finished coat years ago and it was just a terrible experience. I never used it since then.
Its not that serious. 90% of my work is insurance/ flood or mold remediation type work. I legit use about 3 bags a week of 5 minute mud. Its all the same to me.
I myself would fill with hot mud, tape with mesh, mud again. Let dry completely and two more top coats letting them dry between. Apply too much mud and inevitably you’ll have shrinkage which brings cracks. Take your time. If you don’t have hot mud or mesh, I’d tape twice, once real deep and again shallow, but let it dry completely before reapplying. For best results don’t rush it. Good luck.
Or a corner blade would work (yes I know drywallers here don’t like them for corners, but the point is to do a partial fill that’ll dry completely so the protrusion helps)
Every time I try to use 5 minute mud, I get screwed. I'm too slow to use anything quicker than 20. I prefer 45, but I agree with your approach. Do you think 5 minute mud is better than durabond?
I would fill it flat. Once that is fairly hard (no need to wait until dry), apply hot mud mixed to thin consistency, and put strips of overlapping fiberglass type of tape until it covers all of that with minimum half inch overlap between each strip of tape. Then cover the tape with more hot mud mixed thin. Once that becomes fairly hard (again, don't need to wait to dry), do a finish coat or two followed by sanding with a quality sander attached to a vacuum with a filter bag plus HEPA filter, or a dust collector.
Pretty common when transitioning between different floors to prevent drywall cracking from wood expansion. You usually will see something like this in stairwells, but it looks like this was simply a decorative chair rail. No real point in spending the time and money to tape and mud it if it’s in the plans.
They were asking if the person wanted super cheap, get-it-done-now (aka landlord special - ya know, like painting over everything including doorknobs, etc.) type of a recommendation, or if they wanted one that's based on how it should be done. Not sure what you thought they meant lol
Also, "no point in spending time and money to tape and mud if it's in the plans"? I'm confused
Ahh good old waynscoting that someone tried to skim and then tape and float to the above Sheetrock but apparently had some issues with the seam of the two planes of different materials cracking so they said f it and just put a chair rail to hide it !! Apparently after they removed the tape that it seems was installed with out any mud buttered up behind it ! Which was a most likely main reason of it cracking!!
Depending on depth of crack and skill level you could first put a strip of wood in the crack (or if you have any scrap drywall) to fir it out some so you wouldn’t have to use as much mud to fill the crack and expídete drying and circumvent the use of hot mud if your not comfortable with it or just want to use plain old mud (not light weight though) light weight shrinks lots more!! Then mud n tape it up with more mud on top floated out to existing wall then finish with pva primer and paint! Sand 12-24 inches of wall on top and bottom of crack first to aid mud application but for floating them finishing the mud you could use a (wet) drywall finishing sponge and save a lot of mess and clean up instead of dry sanding!! If you use hot mud just use it to build your thickness up as filler you do not want to have to sand hot mud bye any means ! Idk if your familiar with bindo car body filler but hot mud is just as much a pain to sand it drys extremely hard and the quicker setting the harder to sand to!! Ie 20 minute mud harder to sand then 45 minute!! ! Another tip you can do is get regular mud but in a powder not a ready mixed! This way you can control the water content which will help with dry time snd help prevent it from wanting to slump out of such a deep crack and also it’s way more shelf stable then ready mixed! If you have left over the pre mixed will go bad very quickly compared to unmixed so less waste and you will have material that could actually be used for a future repair instead of material that you will be most likely throwing to the curb for the garbage
It's already been mentioned to use a durabond to fill just make sure to use a 30, 45 or even 90. 5 will set up before you can use it and you'll have a bucket of rock. Then mesh and mud with compound. Do not use durabond to finish, very hard to sand and will not blend properly.
Hot mud, embed fiba fuse (the mesh with no holes), then hit mud, skim super tight and flat
Then just a light bit of plus 3/ or slightly wet all in one compound to top it off. Using a 8-10inch knife.
Day 2 Sand down prime paint. If u need another coat for any reason give it another and then sand prime paint on day 3.
Prefill with quik set or durabond, then tape
I'd do quick set and fibafuse on that
I refuse to use durabond. Such a terrible product.
They're all the same. Easy sand, durabond, etc.
My number one go to is pro-form, a close second sheet rock brand.
I’ve work with multiple brands. For my experience, Dura bond was terrible at sanding. Stuck to my tools and it was horrible to get off.
Thats kind of the point of Durabond though. When you got a pre-fill like this, there is nothing better. If you are sanding Durabond, you are not doing it right.
100%. It’s a fill type of thing to get u ready to tape/finish
Point taken. I usually just use a 90 minute Sheetrock brand. But for a fill I can see the application. I had a customer purchased turban to utilize for a finished coat years ago and it was just a terrible experience. I never used it since then.
Oh yeah, that would be an painful experience. Durabond only goes below the tape lol.
You dont sand quick set mud. You top coat it with all purpose.
Its not that serious. 90% of my work is insurance/ flood or mold remediation type work. I legit use about 3 bags a week of 5 minute mud. Its all the same to me.
I myself would fill with hot mud, tape with mesh, mud again. Let dry completely and two more top coats letting them dry between. Apply too much mud and inevitably you’ll have shrinkage which brings cracks. Take your time. If you don’t have hot mud or mesh, I’d tape twice, once real deep and again shallow, but let it dry completely before reapplying. For best results don’t rush it. Good luck.
Pastry bag or gallon bag with the corner cut for filling the bottom quick...
Or a corner blade would work (yes I know drywallers here don’t like them for corners, but the point is to do a partial fill that’ll dry completely so the protrusion helps)
I'd fill just the hole tight. Tape and let it dry. Bury the tape.
Im about to get shit on but I would personally use 5 minute mud and mesh tape for the first two passes and skim it tight with all purpose.
Every time I try to use 5 minute mud, I get screwed. I'm too slow to use anything quicker than 20. I prefer 45, but I agree with your approach. Do you think 5 minute mud is better than durabond?
I'd pre fill it with mud, then tape it. Then mud.
I would fill it flat. Once that is fairly hard (no need to wait until dry), apply hot mud mixed to thin consistency, and put strips of overlapping fiberglass type of tape until it covers all of that with minimum half inch overlap between each strip of tape. Then cover the tape with more hot mud mixed thin. Once that becomes fairly hard (again, don't need to wait to dry), do a finish coat or two followed by sanding with a quality sander attached to a vacuum with a filter bag plus HEPA filter, or a dust collector.
Definitely Durabond pre fill on that bad boy
Prefill with hot mud
Bevel and clean up the edges so the mud can get in there real good. Use hot mud to fill the hole.
Let it dry, tape.
Coat, sand, coat, sand, prime paint.
Bevel good call
I’d put up a nice chair rail
nothing is too large to mud and tape
i support the use of: fibafuse and easy sand (durabond if you can get it and know how to use it)
go forth and prosper
This is the way. You'll have no problem if you go this route.
Landlord special? Or the right way?
Pretty common when transitioning between different floors to prevent drywall cracking from wood expansion. You usually will see something like this in stairwells, but it looks like this was simply a decorative chair rail. No real point in spending the time and money to tape and mud it if it’s in the plans.
They were asking if the person wanted super cheap, get-it-done-now (aka landlord special - ya know, like painting over everything including doorknobs, etc.) type of a recommendation, or if they wanted one that's based on how it should be done. Not sure what you thought they meant lol
Also, "no point in spending time and money to tape and mud if it's in the plans"? I'm confused
Phil’s drywall mud first not hot mud just regular mud let it dry then tape mud sand repeat
Pre fill with hot mud. It doesn't shrink. Then tape as normal
Chip back and bevel far enough to set paper tape on the sheets and then fill with durabond. Skim it and you’re done.
Prefill with hot mud or durabond. Once dry, then tape
Put the board back on?🤷🏻♂️
Ahh good old waynscoting that someone tried to skim and then tape and float to the above Sheetrock but apparently had some issues with the seam of the two planes of different materials cracking so they said f it and just put a chair rail to hide it !! Apparently after they removed the tape that it seems was installed with out any mud buttered up behind it ! Which was a most likely main reason of it cracking!! Depending on depth of crack and skill level you could first put a strip of wood in the crack (or if you have any scrap drywall) to fir it out some so you wouldn’t have to use as much mud to fill the crack and expídete drying and circumvent the use of hot mud if your not comfortable with it or just want to use plain old mud (not light weight though) light weight shrinks lots more!! Then mud n tape it up with more mud on top floated out to existing wall then finish with pva primer and paint! Sand 12-24 inches of wall on top and bottom of crack first to aid mud application but for floating them finishing the mud you could use a (wet) drywall finishing sponge and save a lot of mess and clean up instead of dry sanding!! If you use hot mud just use it to build your thickness up as filler you do not want to have to sand hot mud bye any means ! Idk if your familiar with bindo car body filler but hot mud is just as much a pain to sand it drys extremely hard and the quicker setting the harder to sand to!! Ie 20 minute mud harder to sand then 45 minute!! ! Another tip you can do is get regular mud but in a powder not a ready mixed! This way you can control the water content which will help with dry time snd help prevent it from wanting to slump out of such a deep crack and also it’s way more shelf stable then ready mixed! If you have left over the pre mixed will go bad very quickly compared to unmixed so less waste and you will have material that could actually be used for a future repair instead of material that you will be most likely throwing to the curb for the garbage
Mud and bud it with 20 min
It's already been mentioned to use a durabond to fill just make sure to use a 30, 45 or even 90. 5 will set up before you can use it and you'll have a bucket of rock. Then mesh and mud with compound. Do not use durabond to finish, very hard to sand and will not blend properly.
Pre fill with hot mud, easy
Hot mud, embed fiba fuse (the mesh with no holes), then hit mud, skim super tight and flat Then just a light bit of plus 3/ or slightly wet all in one compound to top it off. Using a 8-10inch knife. Day 2 Sand down prime paint. If u need another coat for any reason give it another and then sand prime paint on day 3.