Started with UDM-SE. Then... well, you all know how this story ends. My wife calls it "The expensive white noise machine," but I call it peace of mind.
I recently spent some time taking advantage of almost every single port to optimize data bottlenecks, cable-managing, and racking the gear for better cooling. It’s not a 42U data center, but it’s a start (let’s be honest) and it’s finally quiet (thanks to the a mod for the shit AC Infinity stock fans).
The Stack (Top to Bottom):
• IoT Hubs: T-Mobile Fallback, Hue, Hubitat, Insteon, YoLink, Shade Store, and an RPi running the smart home logic. Most hubs are PoE adapted for remote restart capability.
• UniFi AI Key: Dedicated for the smart detection and facial recognition automation. Side gate electric latch opens on approach.
• USW-24-PoE: Powering the APs, Flex switches, PoE devices, and the cameras.
• AC Infinity Cloudplate T1: Unusual middle exhaust to keep air moving around the UDM.
• UniFi UDM-SE: Dual WAN (Spectrum 1G / T-Mobile Fallback), SFP+ Backbone, and PoE w/ adapters for the Google Hubs.
• AC Infinity Cloudline T7 (Modded): Swapped the stock fans for Noctua NF-R8 redux-1200s. High CFM, near-silent.
• UniFi NVR: Had to offload from the SE once I hit 10 cameras; the CPU just couldn't keep up with 24/7 4K.
• Tecmojo 1U PDU: 19 outlets because you can never have enough for hubs.
• CyberPower 500VA UPS: Essential buffer for the brief blips and sometimes rough recovery from PW3.
• The Bottom Shelf: Spectrum Modem, Sonos Amp, Laser Printer, and the Xbox Series X (hardwired for that 3ms ping).
Some Details:
• Cameras: 12 total, 1 G4 Doorbell, 4 recording 4K to the NVR w/ 45 days of max quality capture.
• Network: Dual WAN setup. The T-Mobile fallback has saves us when substation utility takes out spectrum.
• Closet Airflow: Since this is a closed closet, I didn't want it to become a convection oven. I added a wall vent at the base and installed a ceiling exhaust fan that returns directly back to the AC. It provides constant cool air volume exchange.
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Ditch that TMobile At home router POS and call up their business department and get a sim card sent out to you. If you provide your own router you can save a few bucks and you get out from under their Home restrictions. I did that a little over a year ago and went with a Spitz AX router and it works great.
I pay $10/month no equipment fee so probably not worth buying my own modem. I don’t use their router at all and it annoys me that there isn’t a way to stop it from broadcasting a WiFi network.
I know of one way.
Yeah but… https://ibb.co/gMhz0q6X
Spitz is 1-3x what I pay annually and I spent maybe a total of 10 days on backup (6 of which were during the la fires).
When you say hardwired your Xbox do you mean controller by chance?
No, just Ethernet connection. Wireless controller works through the closet wall.
You’re going to cook your Sonos amps blocking the exhaust ports like that. Heat rises
I can drop that rack to give more space. There’s about .5” now but hard to tell in the photo because it’s pushed back.
Do you have issues with the sonos equipment? I know Ubiquiti tells you to either totally wire or only wire a single device... this just isn't feasible for me. I have probably 20 different sonos devices - some require wiring per sonos (arc-ultra with sonos amp driving the rears), and some can't be wired (sonos subs in certain locations and play ones in kids rooms)
I am convinced this is why my 2.5g devices never get nearly 2.5g.
Also not confident I want to spend the money replacing my existing 24 port switches with Ubiquiti ones given the limited settings regarding STP...
No issues but I only have a 5.1 setup on Sonos and a Move. All are wired except the Move.
got it... My home is all Ubiquiti, Sonos, Lutron (Radio RA3), and Ring... I like them all, but the Sonos and Ubiquiti have been a little painful for me. I know the pain is the crap implementation of STP by Sonos, but it is what it is!!!
Nice, been thinking about moving on from Insteon to RA3 due to the direct integration with UniFi. Do you use that? If so, how is it?
I have set that up, and it works perfectly. That said, the lutron app is excellent so rarely use anything but it. It is the best system I have used. Previously, I ran a bunch of zwave devices and various controllers (Vera, smart things. Cooper/Eaton, home seer). Lutron is the best. I have caseta at a different location and it is great too (just limited on installation size).
Is that a home setup? Why do you need all of that?
Aside from the cameras and home automation, I have over 100 connected devices (30 of them wired) and many of those require PoE.
I also operate my business from home and my partner is also remote at home.
It’s rarely about need and more about reliability, convenience, and past frustration. This setup is 2 years in the making as I sold Google cameras (w/ 2T of footage upload bottleneck, poor reliability and function w/ annual fees), retired old unmanaged switches and Poe injectors which made things complicated and prone to issues.
Question: what have you done to get the Xbox connected? I see that this set up is in the closet and you mentioned it's hardwired. What have you done to get that signal to whatever screen it's connected to? I've been trying to research what options I have for this.
Connected with Ethernet and I have a hdmi auto switcher to manage two outputs: a 20’ and 25’ run to different TVs. I can play/watch from either.
IMO the ideal is a dedicated cat6 and keeping the Xbox within 25 feet from your main tv. Any greater distance will require a booster and you start to get into cost range that may justify buying another console instead for the second location.
forgive me as I might be misreading your reply, but what do you mean connected with ethernet and an HDMI auto-switcher? is the ethernet connected to the Xbox for the internet and then you have the HDMI switcher for the two TV connections?
Correct. My bad, I could have been more specific. My distances are close enough to each other that I do not need anything more than a HDMI switcher and HDMI cables. Ethernet for internet.
Longer distance from the TV may require HDMI over fiber or Ethernet and you will need a controller repeater. Here’s an example https://youtu.be/pRngAPdumsI?si=6apG52t-iSrXLFnH
sweet. thanks for the response. do you notice any higher latency with this setup or is it basically the same?
With my setup, zero latency. Still making the kids cry on MW
Your UPS (500VA, so probably 300W only) seems VERY low power for all that, excluding of course the laser printer and the Sonos Amp...
Also exclude the Xbox the fans and a few of the hubs (i.e. insteon doesn’t like it - needs common neutral for communication). Aside from the switch NVR and UDM, everything else is PoE.
But you’re right. I spec’d it before adding the NVR. I’m getting close to 80% of its rated capability. So I might need to swap it or limit to what I have backed up currently.
For the fans I agree, but really you should add the XBox and the Sonos…
And if you can a “real” good UPS, double conversion, total galvanic isolation between in and out, power factor = 1 (so 1500VA = 1500W, not 900W like with a PF of 0.6), real pure sinewave,…
It’s an investment but you keep it for 20 years, just a battery swap (cheap) every 4 years.
Yeah, that’s about 4x the price. Might have to let one of these components burn.
Just found this to keep with the 1U slot I have. Anything else might not be rack mountable.
Eaton Tripp Lite Series SU1500LCD1U
Looks ok.. does it still operate as a fridge?
I left out there’s a 6 pack behind the T7
My man! 🤣
The shelfs you used are actually a decent idea as its generally 'heat' that eventually destroys electronics. With that in mind - I see plenty of ventilation here and hopefully, extended longevity 👍