May be wishful thinking , but was driving home from work got in city limits and slid for a solid 100 feet on some ice, afterwards my dash lit up like a christmas tree (no cel) care still drove perfectly fine brake working and all that, and was working before all of this too, was wondering if extreme cold weather can cause this?
No, but low voltage can cause problems. If your battery is low during start up due to extreme cold, could cause low voltage codes.
That makes sense. Had this happen when our battery died a few months ago, still the same battery just jumped it and has been fine since, but it happened after the severe drop in weather
Hey weird question. What vehicle do you have? Is it a hybrid?
Whoops, thought i put it in the title, i have a 2013 Toyota Venza V6, and no, it's not a hybrid
Ah no prob! I only ask because I’ve been trying to investigate an ongoing hybrid battery drain issue lol. It’s unrelated though!
No worries! Hope it gets solved on your end!
Did the lights go away on next startup?
No, still on, after turning off and on, I'm going to leave overnight to see if it changes anything
Something has happened to the wheel speed sensor system. The car will need to be hooked to an OBD-reader to see what codes its throwing
Extreme cold can do lots of things, sliding on ice could certainly cause the traction control and abs lights to come on. Are they still on now or was it only on during the skid ?
Still on, after turning off and on, I'm going to leave overnight to see if it changes anything
Happened to my wife it was like -40c that day in her highlander . She turned the gas cap and made sure it clicked and it went away on start up
The ABS and traction light could be just a dirty sensor but I am not sure about the brake light.
I wouldn't disconnect the battery but that's just me. It wipes out a bunch of other data. I would restart a few times and wait. The car is mechanically fine, as you said. You could try turning the steering wheel fully right and left a few times. Sometimes the sensors need to reset after detecting skid and disabling. You'll give the sensors correct readings.
It’s not from the cold. You should disconnect the battery for 30mins and see if it still lights up.
Did you get gas recently? Check the cap Make sure it’s tight. You can also unhook battery for 30 minutes or an hour see if that will clear it.
Got a code scanner you can scan for stored codes before unhooking battery
You need to pull codes from the system and see what the computer isn't happy with and then go from there.
those lights often come on together as the systems are linked, use data from each other. when one has an error, the others could be disabled by the computers.
i've had it happen in my 2010 Corolla after a slide on ice, lights went away after a couple of drives. i assumed the wheel speed sensors or the yaw or steering angle sensors were putting out weird data, and the computer decided to disable all related systems until the next restart. another time my ABS control module stopped working and all the lights were on permanently. had to replace the ABS pump (control module was not separately replaceable for that model, might be separate for others).
a next step can be to get a free code reading from an auto parts store
Its likely a wheel bearing or a speed sensor issue (or both, bad wheel takes out speed sensor)
All 3 of those lights are related to wheel speed sensor not reading correctly.
You'll need to check the code and have it read.
With the temperature being what it is it could have been a cold, snow and ice build up related issue and it bumped the sensor or ring on the axle causing the code to come up.
Id start by having the codes checked.
I had that with a wheel speed sensor, smacked my rear drum a couple times and it went away. Hook it up to a scan tool it will tell you.
Sometimes ice or something can get into a sensor till things warm up
If you really want to know what the codes are, go to an Advanced Auto or Auto Zone. They’ll identify the codes for free. Otherwise if you just want the codes to go away, disconnect your negative battery cable for 30 minutes then reconnect. The codes should be gone.
Since it was the result of a one-off event, I’d just clear the codes. If there’s a real issue, they’ll come back and then you can go the full diagnostic route.