In my deck permits, I required the use of DCA-6 and the application had a check-off block had to be initialed that they would comply with DCA6. I was lucky, I had good builders and we discussed things at the footer and rim-joist-attachment inspection.
Thankfully, I didn't have to test if it was legal initialing, but it got everyone's attention, and they couldn't say nobody told them what their job was.
Very true. I'm coming from both the design and the building side of it. I have had some inspectors tell me they won't even look at the plans if you tell them you are doing something with a newer code since the aren't familiar with the newer codes. They know what they know and refuse to learn.
Hopefully folks will read and pay attention. People also need to be aware that some states have stricter codes than the IRC. Here in NC post to beam and ledger to band joist connections must be min. 5/8" galvanized through bolts or the approved Simpson connectors. No 1/2" lags allowed. Reason being, we have had so many deck collapses due to salt water corrosion. On beachfronts stainless is generally required.
They don't even read the Reddit posts. For example I didn't read beyond the word "attention" in your post. Edit: OK I came back and read the whole post.
Good reference from 2015, but not the most recent. After reading this, you can then read your local codes, which are likely different, especially in CA. One thing that popped out to me was the min. post size of 6x6". My last deck and balcony were engineered and inspected with 4" posts and it's a 2nd story balcony. If you don't have an engineer on the plans, at least give this Simpson planning tool a spin. It takes into consideration Live and Dead loads (which are usually defined by the city or state code). Obviously they spec Simpson connectors, but can help you with a parts list and what size/spacing for joists and beams as well as your footings. I found it easy to use (for a CAD) program: https://www.strongtie.com/products/go/software/deckplanner
Hi. I’m wondering if I use solid stain in weathered plastic lattice will it take? My lattice is about 15 years old and a coat of solid Behr stain will go a long way. I will rough with sand paper prior to staining. Opinions and suggestions appreciated, and no, it won’t hold a hot tub!
In the last three years, I have used these standards to help many clients design and obtain building permits for their decks. if anyone needs help navigating the standards, feel free to check out my website https://outdoorseatingarea.com/get-deck-building-permit-drawings/
So my back porch is basically a deck with a roof over it. I assume that used to be screened in. I want to enclose it but I do not want screen as we have stray cats. Is there anything that y’all could recommend besides using glass because I am on a budget.
I am having a deck built. The contractor says he won’t use blocking, and he will float the deck on helix supports for three support beams rather than attach the deck to the house. He says that’s since the support beams are less than 10’ apart, the beams and the Trex decking are more than enough to reduce/control any deflection. Does this sound right? I am a big guy, I anticipate a lot of people on this deck. I don’t want it to move.
This was based on the 2015 IRC code..
there is now the 2021 IRC and IBC codes and standards.
Noob here. Any deck guides out for those standards?
It has not changed significantly from the IRC 2015 standards.
It's also very likely your municipality has not adopted IRC 2021 or later yet, which means the guide based on IRC 2015 still governs.
You icg
In my deck permits, I required the use of DCA-6 and the application had a check-off block had to be initialed that they would comply with DCA6. I was lucky, I had good builders and we discussed things at the footer and rim-joist-attachment inspection.
Thankfully, I didn't have to test if it was legal initialing, but it got everyone's attention, and they couldn't say nobody told them what their job was.
yes, true.
also applicable code depends on what you city/state has adopted. We run on 2015 still
Depends on where you live. Not every state or city uses the most recent code
I feel, as a service to my client, I use the latest and greatest code in my design
I always keep in mind that designing to the code is the bare minimum to where it is illegal
Very true. I'm coming from both the design and the building side of it. I have had some inspectors tell me they won't even look at the plans if you tell them you are doing something with a newer code since the aren't familiar with the newer codes. They know what they know and refuse to learn.
IN for example is still using 2012 codes
In terms of Code that's actually relevant to decks, though... has anything changed since 2012?
Hopefully folks will read and pay attention. People also need to be aware that some states have stricter codes than the IRC. Here in NC post to beam and ledger to band joist connections must be min. 5/8" galvanized through bolts or the approved Simpson connectors. No 1/2" lags allowed. Reason being, we have had so many deck collapses due to salt water corrosion. On beachfronts stainless is generally required.
They don't even read the Reddit posts. For example I didn't read beyond the word "attention" in your post. Edit: OK I came back and read the whole post.
Thanks for this. I’m a city building inspector and this is what I recommend my contractors follow.
https://awc.org/resource-hub/?gsearch=prescriptive%20deck%20guide
Posts go inside the rim joist and to the ground, this way sucks
Guard or deck posts?
Good reference from 2015, but not the most recent. After reading this, you can then read your local codes, which are likely different, especially in CA. One thing that popped out to me was the min. post size of 6x6". My last deck and balcony were engineered and inspected with 4" posts and it's a 2nd story balcony. If you don't have an engineer on the plans, at least give this Simpson planning tool a spin. It takes into consideration Live and Dead loads (which are usually defined by the city or state code). Obviously they spec Simpson connectors, but can help you with a parts list and what size/spacing for joists and beams as well as your footings. I found it easy to use (for a CAD) program: https://www.strongtie.com/products/go/software/deckplanner
Holy shit thank god my deck is bigger than the standard!
Hi. I’m wondering if I use solid stain in weathered plastic lattice will it take? My lattice is about 15 years old and a coat of solid Behr stain will go a long way. I will rough with sand paper prior to staining. Opinions and suggestions appreciated, and no, it won’t hold a hot tub!
https://preview.redd.it/7ix6qx6mv28f1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eb483cc50a033e900fff72285efed00d03077643
You should create a post to ask this question instead of replying to this thread.
Oops! Sorry! Stop ll kinda new to posting
In the last three years, I have used these standards to help many clients design and obtain building permits for their decks. if anyone needs help navigating the standards, feel free to check out my website https://outdoorseatingarea.com/get-deck-building-permit-drawings/
I'm replacing a few boards on the old deck Anyone have an opinion on using screws vs nails
This is great, thanks!
What size beam should I use for a 15ft span
Will composite ever outsell wood alternatives? I recall on my only deck using composite that it got blistering hot in the sun.
So my back porch is basically a deck with a roof over it. I assume that used to be screened in. I want to enclose it but I do not want screen as we have stray cats. Is there anything that y’all could recommend besides using glass because I am on a budget.
https://preview.redd.it/rnlttj9nrm6e1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bbb4c587e71530f17c4ba9d07d4a39ef72e70cb2
I need to replace a 19 x 14’ deck and put a poly carbonate roof on it. Wondering about what it should cost?
I am having a deck built. The contractor says he won’t use blocking, and he will float the deck on helix supports for three support beams rather than attach the deck to the house. He says that’s since the support beams are less than 10’ apart, the beams and the Trex decking are more than enough to reduce/control any deflection. Does this sound right? I am a big guy, I anticipate a lot of people on this deck. I don’t want it to move.