• Flare fitting, doesn't need it.

    I still put a little bit of dope on the threads so it's easier to tighten and less prone to corrosion.

    I'm a licensed gas tech and I'm telling you there no point to doing that on a flared fitting.

    I'm also a licensed gas tech, and I agree. If you can't properly tighten a flare without dope, it's not suitable. And the dope just crusts up and makes things annoying when you change out fittings 

    This is correct. Source: I work with this stuff.

    None certified person here, I agree, no dope. Source: 3 out of the last 4 people said so, so it must be true.

    9 out of 10 dentists recommend. The other dentist works a vet so fuck him.

    Another non professional who also believes the above statements because they say they are professionals.

    They are stainless fittings, so no corrosion. And the dope actually affects the metal on metal flared seal. There is a reason manufacturers and trade practice strictly prohibit it

    You are wasting your dope...and we can all say wasting dope is worse than spilling beer

    You can, but it's not necessary, and there's always a risk of it getting into the flare. Just clean the threads.

  • Shows three connections assuming we know that they know that we know what they are talking about.

    There's way more than 3... and that's not even counting the vent.

    [deleted]

    I only see 8:

    1. appliance to flare adapter

    2. flare adapter to flex

    3. flex to flare adapter

    4. flare to nipple

    5. nipple to valve

    6. valve to supply

    7. wall vent to elbow

    8. elbow to flex vent

    Which 2 did I miss?

    Waldo is in the upper left quadrant

    1. appliance to adapter

    2. adapter to flare

    3. hose end flare

    4. other end hose to adapter

    5. adapter to pipe

    6 pipe shutoff top

    1. pipe shutoff bottom

    2. 90 elbow vent at wall

    3. 90 elbow vent up

    4. it looks like there a small crease and thus a small section of vent inbetween flex vent and 90

    ?

    1. appliance to adapter

    2. adapter to flare

    3. hose end flare

    4. other end hose to adapter

    5. adapter to pipe

    6 pipe shutoff top

    1. pipe shutoff bottom

    2. 90 elbow vent at wall

    3. 90 elbow vent up

    4. it looks like there a small crease and thus a small section of vent inbetween flex vent and 90

    ?

    I think we're disconnected on this.

    if I know my stupid well enough, I might be able to translate for you. I think they may be referring to the yellow gas line. which end? who knows, they weren't really articulate with those details. 🤣💀

  • Can you be a bit more specific? There are several connections pictured.

  • There are multiple fittings there. If you are talking about the NPT fittings, then use gas tape (should be yellow and thicker than the white shit). If you are talking about the flared fittings, then clean up the fittings (nice and shinny on the mating surface) or replace the line. Either way no need for tape.

  • Which connection? If you’re asking about the gas lines, please don’t DIY if you’re not familiar with the requirements. Small mistakes can be deadly.

    Don’t say that. He can learn like we all did.

    I’m all for learning but also believe the gas lines are not the place to start.

    If they smell gas, they’ll check the connection. A small leak will not blow up the house in an hour.

    To be fair, the leaking exhaust vent will probably kill OP first.

    If it's caught. My exes house exploded because of a small leak in the water heater. Nobody knew it was leaking because it was in a utility room, just filled an area the size of a small bathroom then blew off the back half of the house.

    Exactly, the contractor my builder hired to do the gas just used a random mismatch of 5 adapters from the pipe to the flexible connector. One of the adapters was leaky and my attic would constantly smell like mercaptin if the furnace was on. My neighbors had similar contraptions that we all fixed by just using a single adapter and properly getting the correct fittings / sizes. My shared wall neighbor could vey clearly smell gas throughout the house 2 years back. Mine only periodically smelled (usually if I left for a week). Thankfully we never had enough saturation to be a real problem.

    And that was done by a "professional" like the commentor above advised to hire....

    You need to know enough about this stuff to control the pros doing the work.... resulting in the pros going out of work for small/simple jobs.

    Yeah screw those people with their fancy licenses, lol.

    In my country there are no "licenses" you can go to school,but you don't need to.

    And if they pros wouldnt make beginner mistakes they wouldnt ruin the market.

    Exactly, the contractor my builder hired to do the gas just used a random mismatch of 5 adapters from the pipe to the flexible connector. One of the adapters was leaky and my attic would constantly smell like mercaptin if the furnace was on. My neighbors had similar contraptions that we all fixed by just using a single adapter and properly getting the correct fittings / sizes. My shared wall neighbor could vey clearly smell gas throughout the house 2 years back. Mine only periodically smelled (usually if I left for a week). Thankfully we never had enough saturation to be a real problem.

    My whole neighborhood is a ticking timebomb for the right amount of leakage to occur. The problem seems to stem from mismatches fittings that they taped around the outside.

    You are so right. People here or bots need to chill a bit.

    I learned from books written and reviewed by paid professionals, not random reddit posts.

    As long as you’re actually testing your work, it’s fine. Don’t listen to these naysayers. I learned how to do this stuff because plumbers kept causing gas leaks in my house.

    Learn to run a pressure test. Learn to look for leaks with the soapy water they sell with the plumbing stuff. Learn the difference between flare, gasket, compression, and tapered thread fittings.

    I did some of my own, it went fine. Respect the job and the requirements to do the job and you’re fine.

    Got it. The connections with check marks look like tapered pipe thread and should have dope or tape. They make heavy grade tape that’s colored (I’ve seen yellow and blue) to be used on gas lines; the very cheap white tape may not be sufficient.

    The connections with X’s are flare connections and don’t get tape or dope. Those rely on matching smooth and clean surfaces to mate.

  • When fooling with gas if you have to ask that question, it’s best not even to mess with it.

    come on, blowing up your house is fun

    Then just make sure you have ear protection.

  • The compression fittings don't use tape or dope. They have the fittings that are directly in contact with the yellow flexible tubing.

    The other fittings that attach to the threaded pipe need tape or dope, or nowadays people do both.

  • you got some dope?

  • The fitting connected to the yellow flex pipe does NOT get tape or dope. That is a NPT gas connection. The others using regular pipe threads (MPT) do.

  • I see four connections.....

  • What connections are you talking about? If it's the yellow hose or is single use (read the tag attached to it) and have somebody who knows what they are doing complete the work

  • I always use pipe dope on my dryer exhaust!

  • So the csst is an appliance whip. You're technically not suppose to put dope on them, but I like to put a little bit on the threads ONLY. The angled flare face is the sealing part of that connection and will leak if you put dope on it. Here is the thing about Teflon tape and pipe dope, they don't seal the connection, they're suppose to lubricate the connection so you can get it tight enough to not leak. I have also found on those appliance whips, you have to give them the business when you tighten them to not leak.

  • Sorry, I should’ve been more specific. I meant the gas line connection. Just confirming that the flare fittings didn’t need dope or tape. Thanks for all the input.

  • Which one? There’s about 8 connections there in total.

  • If it is a FNPT you don’t need tape but it probably isn’t FNPT

  • Not the flare hose connections but to the pipe you need gas rated tape and dope. Now the vent looks like hell. Need to do that right. And clean up behind there get that plastic cap and wrapper and dust a little. Maybe even caulk the pipe going down to the basement. Looks like the flooring company did a real professional job…

  • Dude if you don’t know hire a professional to do it and to teach you for the next time. Gas is no joke. Do you know how to test for leaks…?

    When you don’t know the big picture you don’t know all the questions to even ask. You come here asking one and think that’s all there is to know. That’s a great way to fuck things up. As many people have pointed out there’s many fittings which seal differently and you were ignorant of that too.

    Please keep doing things yourself BUT educate yourself first. Watch a YouTube video or get a book or ask a professional to explain everything around the fitting you’re asking about. How the dryer works, how does the gas get to the dryer, what are the safety features of the gas service, how can you die if you do it wrong, etc.?

  • They sell tape specifically for gas connections

    Came here to say this

    Not for flare fittings…

  • Dope is fine. White tape is for water. There is a grey gas connection tape.

  • CSST if not installed properly installed and grounded can be a fire hazard. The wall thickness of CSST is thin. If not properly installed and grounded, a lightning strike on or near your house that energizes the CSST can result in an arcing fault from the CSST to a grounded conductor. This can can melt a hole in the CSST and ignite the gas. The little bit of insulation on the CSST will not protect against the voltages created by a lightning strike. Copper tubing (which should definitely be installed by a licensed professional) does not have this problem because it has more wall thickness.

  • You need a gas sniffer and a license for sure. Don't blow up the block. Your nose is not sensitive enough to make sure your connection is safe.

    You don’t use a sniffer to check for gas leaks on work like this

    Yep, a soap bubble test is all thats needed.

    Every install needs pipe dope and a sniffer once you turn the gas back on. What country are you from?

    Lmao. No, flares fitting do not need pipe dope, and a sniffer is not necessary to find leaks. Don't be weird.

    Soap bubble test. Leaks can be so small they're not picked up by a sniffer, especially if there is a lot of air movement.

    And you do not dope/tape MPT flare fittings.

    Owner builder permit where I live can install gas lines and appliances. No special license

  • I'd use dope.

    Please leak check with bubbles.

    Only on the pipe fittings. Never use it on the flare fittings. They are both pictured. Learn the difference.

  • For gas lines, you should use either tape or dope, but you can use both. However, use tape or dope specifically rated for gas (not water rated which is most common). Don't forget to use a backup wrench when tightening. You can spray soapy water over the joint when pressurized to check for leaks. If using the PTFE tape, make sure to wrap it clockwise and stay off the first thread.

  • [deleted]

    Who made this guy Chris Boden?

  • I mean dont use it if you like fireworks.

    Honestly Op, pay the 50 bucks and have a guy come out and do it properly. They will also check all the fittings too to make sure they are in good shape.

    $50. Are you living in the 80's? No one is coming out for less than $300.