Hi everyone,

I recently received an S1 Max Combo for beta testing. I have been playing it for a few days now and really like it. Feel free to ask me anything about the machine. I'm not working for the company; I'm just a designer/hobbyist from Makeronline & MakerWorld.

Please note that my experience is based on the specific S1 Max unit I received and the current firmware; your experience may vary with a retail unit.

Cheers

https://preview.redd.it/umtjdg9fau9g1.jpg?width=3060&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f453b77783f5ff41624f341fa47a794cf43fcac5

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  • Is the bed properly level?

    Does the glass door properly seal for chamber heating prints?

    Thanks for the response! A bit disappointing that the first layer isnt completely perfect, but i guess thats a side effect of having a massive bed lol. hopefully they get it fixed in the update!

    We'll wait Rinkhals on it to improve that 👀

  • Thank you so much 🙏🏻 I was waiting that someone would do it, I hope you're having a good time with this printer !

    What do you think about this printer ? In your opinion, does Anycubic actually deliver on its promises?

    • Is the printer noisy ?

    • When doing a z‑hop, does the build plate make a “clack clack” sound?

    • Is the sound and thermal insulation good?

    • What’s your experience with the current touchscreen interface and its new features?

    • Have you noticed any quality issues despite proper calibration (shifts, squished lines, or ugly shadows when looking at the print under grazing light)?

    • How do you manage the poop chute? Did you manage to attach something to catch the poops?

    • How stable is the printer? Does it move a lot while printing?

    • Has the strength and stability of the bed really been improved and the automatic leveling also ensuring a perfect first layer?

    • Which nozzles did you receive in the pack? 0.4 and 0.6 or more ?

    • Is the Ace Pro actually faster and quiter? Is the drying really improved?

    • Does the filament consumption tracking feature work well?

    • The printer has glass doors, but is the rest made of metal or plastic?

    • The slicer and app work well with the printer, any additional features? (taking into account that this is only the beta version)

      • Is the camera really of better quality? Do you manage to have a clean stream that allows you to see if there are any printing defects?
    • No problems with wifi / rj45 connectivity?

    -Have you tried technical filaments? If so, what was it like?

    Could we get additional photos of the printer, also inside of the print head?

    If I have any other questions that come to mind, I would ask them in response to my message

    Thank you again 🫶🏻

    No problem!

    - The printer is not noisy. I won't call it silent, but it's much quieter than S1/K3, thanks to its ANC.

    - No more "clack clack" sound for z-hops.

    - Sound insulation is good imo, but everyone's sensitivity to sound is different. For me, I can barely hear the noise of the fans when the door is closed. I can't speak of the thermal insulation yet because I haven't printed any super engineering filament yet.

    - Touchscreen interface is similar to the S1/K3, very straightforward but nothing fancy. I feel like the screen is the same as S1/K3, so it's very responsive. Can you elaborate on what you mean by new feature?

    - I do see a little uneven layer line, but it's mostly related to the slicer presets. The default preset atm is bad, but after I tuned it a little bit, it's much better. I can only see uneven layer lines at extreme light angles. The hardware is good, just AC needs to fix their slicer presets & maybe firmware.

    - I've designed a poop deflector & chute to catch the poop.

    - The printer is very stable & has not much vibration. It has four small, thin rubber feet, and they are not super soft. I actually feel like (<-subjective for now) S1 Max vibrates less than S1.

    - The print bed isn't as thick as those from other players. Currently, the first layer isn't perfect, but very close. I think after one firmware update, they will get it right.

    - I only have a 0.4 nozzle that came with the printer head, but this can not represent the nozzles that will come with retail units.

    - My OG ACEs are already very quiet, so is ACE Pro 2. ACE Pro 2 is faster for sure. Drying is improved when it comes to the temperature. It also came with a humidity sensor, so that we can see the real-time humidity inside the box. There's a "door" that opens during drying and closes when not. My biggest complaint about the OG ACE is the lack of sealing, but ACE Pro 2 has a very tight seal to keep the filament dry.

    - Filament tracking works well, but it's just an estimate. It shows me that a roll of filament is full or about empty.

    - The frame of the printer & back plate is metal, but the side panels are plastic.

    - No extra features in the slicer & app, as long as I can tell.

    - The camera view is a little better than S1. Can't speak if I can see all the defects on the printer, since defects can be big or small.

    - I have no issue with WiFi, but I haven't tried the Ethernet yet. My printer is pretty far from my router.

    - I've only tried ASA, but not Nylon or PC yet. Zero problem with ASA.

    Here is a pic inside the print head. It's pretty sleek imo.

    https://preview.redd.it/wccg1jjbmu9g1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5f6962ee22b503dae2b7ae31c4068260d3a2b54f

    Always very accurate and thorough with the questions. Great job! 👏🏻

    Haha thanks!

    A bit disappointing but when you think about it, it must be to attach the fanduct 😂

    Thanks

    Hahaha, that's us... We had big plans for that screw 🤣

  • Nice. I’m still waiting for mine

    Me too, honestly can't wait

    I have plenty of filaments, from simple to the most technical, waiting for it ! The projects are going to be crazy and finally achievable 🙌🏻

  • I've been reading and watching all your replies, and it's super interesting.

    Thanks for sharing the printhead photo as well.

    From what I can see, they finally decided to use magnets to secure the cover to the printhead on this printer.

    I think this will ensure fewer problems with the plastic clips breaking, like on the Kobra S1, but I have a question, considering this is already used on other printers:

    • Are the magnets strong enough to prevent the cover from frequently falling off at high speeds/accelerations?

    Also, I have a couple more questions. I apologize if they've already been answered, as I didn't see them at the time:

    • Are the two auxiliary fans inside the chamber controlled individually or together?
    • How fast and reliable do you find the new hotend quick-change system? Does the metal clip that locks the hotend in place seem sturdy?

    • How long does it take to heat up?

    • Can you share a photo of the hotend removed from its mount and without the silicone sock?

    • What nozzle configurations, other than 0.4 mm, are currently available in the printer's user interface?

    • What automatic calibrations and assistance systems does the machine include, both before printing and during setup? (Auto-leveling, PID calibration, etc.)

    • What has your experience been so far with the chamber heater? Is it intuitive to use in the interface? How long does it take to heat up?

    • What is the basic air filtration system like that the printer includes?

    • Does the build plate use the same stop system as the Kobra S1 for assembly?

    • How fast and even is the bed heating?

    • Can the purge multiplier be adjusted on the printer once you've started printing?

    • Has the noise level of the Ace Pro 2 been reduced (compared to the Ace Pro 1) during retractions and filament feeding?

    • Can TPU 95A be used in the Ace Pro 2?

    Thank you very much in advance for taking the time to answer our questions. I'm also waiting to receive a beta test unit and am eager to learn more about the printer. Actually, this kind of post was on my mind too.

    If I think of any more questions, sorry, I think I'll come back and write them again... 🤣

    Oops, sorry, I've thought of a few more: - On the Kobra S1, the casing erodes the PTFE tube at the print head inlet, and the community created various systems to avoid this problem. Has this issue been resolved on the Kobra S1 Max? What is this area like on the new printer?

    • This is a recurring issue with many printers... What is the nozzle cleaning system like on the Kobra S1 Max? Does it usually leave filament residue on the nozzle?

    • For bed leveling, the Kobra S1 uses a tension sensor that detects the nozzle rubbing against the build plate. What type of sensor does the Kobra S1 Max use for bed leveling?

    - My PTFE guide design was actually one of the most downloaded PTFE guide models on MO haha. The S1 Max doesn't have this issue. There is a lot of clearance between it and the printhead case.

    - It uses a poop ejector design similar to the K3 series. The parking and rubbing modules are identical to S1. I haven't done many multicolor prints, so I can't say much about their effectiveness yet.

    - I feel like they use the same approach when measuring z offset, though I'm not sure because I haven't taken everything apart yet.

    https://preview.redd.it/0v3tetv802ag1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b374b685cc984f06ecffe3464b0a5c343a747229

    No worries!

    - I think the magnets are strong enough for the front cover, though only time can tell. The front cover doesn't have the cooling fan attached, so it is not heavy, and maybe less likely to take off with high acceleration.

    - The two auxiliary fans are controlled together.

    - The nozzle quick-change system (no longer needs to swap the entire hotend like on S1) looks sturdy imo. There is no wiggle room like on some K3 Max. It is also more foolproof, as if the nozzle is not inserted all the way in, the metal clips can't be closed, and neither can the silicone socket and front cover.

    - I suppose you are asking about nozzle heating? It took 38'' to go from 24 to 220, so pretty fast.

    - Hotend pic attached below. I'm holding half of the heat sink because there is a spring that tries to keep them closed.

    - I see Brass-0.2, 0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, and hardened steel 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 in the setting.

    - During initial setup (or you can do it later on the touchscreen) has vibration compensation, abl, PID calibration for both the bed and nozzle, and anc. Before each print, we can choose from abl, flow calibration, vibration compensation, and taking timelapse.

    - I assume the camera heater was a typo, and you mean the chamber heater? The chamber heating isn't working on my unit atm, not sure if it's a firmware thing or damaged during shipping.

    - The printer comes with a bag of activated carbon. I think AC said we can purchase a HEPA filter later?

    - What does "build plate use the same stop system as the Kobra S1 for assembly" mean? It relies on the nozzle hitting the build plate to detect the end stop of the build plate, like on the S1.- The bed heating isn't as fast as on smaller machines. It took 1'40'' to heat from 36 to 55 based on the reading on the touchscreen. I don't have a thermo cam, so I can't really tell how even the bed heating is.

    - I can't adjust the purge multiplier on the printer once it starts printing.

    - My OG ACE Pros are pretty quiet, and so is the ACE Pro 2. Like for both boxes, I can mostly only hear the spool rotating and not the motor.

    - TPU 95A isn't supported in ACE Pro 2, and AC is coming up with TPU for ACE soon. Though confusingly, I can select TPU 95A on the touchscreen when I put a roll of unofficial filament in it.

    Hope you get your printer soon. I've had a lot of fun, and this thing has a lot of potential.

    https://preview.redd.it/tykg30d3y1ag1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ef3db8aece56208ddecd19e737e571316802c2d8

    There's a lot of interesting information here, thanks for taking the time to answer.

    I've corrected the typo. Regarding the question that's causing confusion, I was referring to the guides for mounting the build plate, although I think I can see that they're the same as the Kobra S1's in the other photos. Finally, the Kobra S1 Max + Ace Pro 2 ad suggests compatibility with TPU 95A, which would honestly be great news.

    Changing the subject... Are you Piodeer? 👀 Looks like my beta testing unit is on its way soon 😁

    No problem. What does piodeer mean?

    He's a designer at MakerOnline; when you mentioned the PTFE tub protector, I thought you were him.

    Oh no, I'm not.

  • Would you recommend this for a beginner?

    I can't really answer this one, but it's an easy-to-use printer for sure.

    When I started 3D printing, we had to build our own and tune everything by ourselves. The latest printers are already much easier to use for beginners.

    If you are willing to spend like an hour or two to learn about how slicers & Makeronline/MakerWorld/Printables, etc work, then I don't see why S1 Max isn't for you.

  • Was it easy to set it up and print out of the box? What parts are skimped out on. Does it feel cheaply put together? Or is it a soild machine. And what annoys you the most and what did they do well. Thanks. I almost pre-ordered one but many people scared me off. So I started to look at the max 4.

    It was easy to set it up; it took me about 10 minutes.

    It doesn't feel cheap at all. The machine feels solid, and I really like its look. No more big gaps between outer panels like on the S1. I would argue that ACE Pro is the most "luxurious" multicolor filament box with its look, mechanical design, and features.

    My two complaints are the slicer presets and the purge wiper. The default slicer presets aren't good right now, but I'm sure AC is working on them. I don't really care about the presets since I know how to tune them. The purge wiper is a little bit loud when ejecting poop.

  • Are the filament detectors in the new ace the same as the "ace pro" that came with the standard S1 combo?

    Same for the motor / belt setup or have they changed to 4 separate drives yet

    The mechanics are completely redesigned. It has one brushless motor for each filament slot now.

    Thanks, I asked a customer service rep and they couldn't answer me properly,

    It's got the the point I ended up buying a 2nd hand ACE pro for my S1 while waiting on parts, just to get work done

    Oh, that's not good. I hope it gets resolved soon.

  • Have you experienced any strange retraction or feed errors as we sometimes see on the S1. Do you feel like the ACE 2 feeds more reliably?

    Sadly yes, I get a false error that asks me to reload a filament before printing a few times after I updated my ACE Pro 2 to V1.1.19. If I do nothing but restart printing, the error goes away. Previous V1.1.17 was fine. AC is fixing it.

    My OG ACE Pros never gave me any issues, but my friend has issues with his. The old 2-motor solution was a pain for many, but with the new mechanics (one brushless motor per filement slot) inside the ACE Pro 2, I guess there will be fewer issues. Only time will tell.

    The OG ACE Pro requires us to first straighten the filament and then insert it into the holes, or the filament gets out from unexpected places. This is no longer the case for ACE Pro 2. I've inserted bent filament (due to using the holes on the spools) into the holes and didn't have any issues.

    Thanks for the detail, got mine on order to go alongside the OG so was just curious as to what has improved. Since you only have the .4mm nozzle does that mean you havent really tested nozzle swapping yet? (Cutting down the time it takes to swap nozzles is a big feature to me.) In short, it sounds like the hardware has many improvements, but the firmware will need some optimization before launch. And overall we shouldn't expect the experience to change... too much from the S1C... Thats interesting about the filament feed. Straightening out the filament is really frustrating so being able to just "clamp" it in and go will be so nice. I cant wait til February to get back up to the size of my old Tronxy X5 in a printer that doesn't completely suck!

    Haha, no problem. Honestly, I won't say the experience is the same as S1C. It's hard to explain, but I feel like S1 Max is a little better than the S1 in all aspects, like the seal-tight ACE Pro, faster color change, hardened steel nozzle, and ANC. When they are combined, the overall experience is significantly improved. I can see how if AC fixes the firmware and slicer preset, it's going to be a beast.

    Thats really encouraging, and makes me feel even more excited about it. Can't wait!

    Eh... I knew I was missing something in my reply. I did try nozzle swapping. To change the nozzles, S1 Max only needs to swap the nozzles, but S1 needs to swap the entire hotend. For me, it takes about the same amount of time as S1, but the new design on S1 Max is more foolproof. No more cable unplug&replug, and the nozzle is freed by opening "doors" (<- not sure how to call it) sideways, similar to BBL printers.

    The old S1 style caused some people not insert the hotend all the way in, and it ended up scratching the bed. This user error is no longer possible, but I'm sure someone will invent some new ways to mess things up lol

    Since it is just the nozzle does it still require full calibration after the swap or no?

    I don't think so, or at least I can't think of why we need to do a full calibration. The only exception is probably different nozzle materials, for which nozzle heating PID calibration might be helpful.

    It's not a multinozzle printer, so it doesn't need to align the nozzle to anything. The z offset is also auto-adjusted before every print. Nozzles of different diameters aren't much different in weight, so vibration compensation and anc calibration aren't needed.

    If it is the case where different size nozzles need different calibration it would be nice if we could just do it once for each nozzle type and have it remember rather than requiring it with each swap. Seems silly for the quick change nozzle system to be handicapped by firmware that requires constant calibration. Some people need the ability to swap between nozzle sizes quickly, and the way the S1c treats a swap like a factory reset is crazy to me.

  • Do you know if there is any different on these beta test units vs the units that will be getting fully released? Just wondering if ANYCUBIC is making any last minute changes or anything based of feedback from the beta testers.

    I have no clue about this since I can't foresee the future, but it's a common practice to make adjustments even between different batches of retail units.

    Thanks for the quick reply! Did ANYCUBIC give you any info as to when the first batch of retail units will ship? I got in at the super early pricing so I’m just eagerly waiting for my order status to change to “shipped”!

    Had one more question, how did the packaging look? With the S1 Max getting some glass components, did it seem like the packaging is designed well enough to hopefully prevent those from breaking in shipping transit? I personally have only owned the Kobra S1 and so I know if see some photos online of other competitors that have glass panels shatter in shipping

    Mine arrived fine and had a lot of thick, soft foam. However, the retail unit packaging will be different for sure because the box I got has no model or brand name on it. I had to lift the machine out from the top, but the user manual says the bottom of the box and the remainder of the box can be separated. Retail units only require you to lift the machine from the bottom of the box.

  • I am a Disabled Firefighter and looking for something to keep me busy and hopefully help make some side money. Lol

    Now that you have had some time with the Max, do you feel it's a good commercial type printer ( like the bambu x1c carbon) or still in the Hobby type printers?

    I am on the fence between the max and bambu p2s, plan to order this week. However I have many say stay away from Anycube, and just as many say that about bambu. Would the Max be a good choice over the other for reliability ( able to just set and go) and longevity? Not looking fir a printer I will have to tinker with a lot. ( have had my fill with the ender 5 plus)

    I plan to make RC car bodies and parts for vehicles, so plan on using different Engineer grade filiaments ( like ABS/ASA/ Nylon and CF infused filiament) Do you think the Max Is a good choice for that type of filiament?

    And finally I see you Said the build plate was still on the thin side, do you think it will cause issues or warp as the S1 sometimes did?

    Also how much waist does it produce on multi color prints? And how I the speed while printing?

    I was thinking AC would have listened to the customers and fixed all the issues people were having with the S1, does that seem like they did?

    I am just trying to see if worth spending the money for this over the P2S. ( not considering the plate size) I do like it has a chamber heater on the unit. Thank you in advance for any input you can provide.

    First of all, full respect to you as a disabled firefighter! Take my salute.

    It's very early for me to say that S1 Max is a good commercial-type or hobby-type printer because I haven't had it for long, and the firmware and slicer presets are yet to be finalized. I can't say anything about the longevity of the printer either. Based on my limited experience with my test unit, I think it is very reliable (0 print failures yet). The print quality is not perfect with the current slicer preset/firmware, but if AC gets them right, it will be a beast.

    Based on the limited info you gave me, I would suggest you get the S1 Max over the P2S because the S1 Max has chamber heating. This is a must for many engineering filaments. It also has other features that might be minor to you: bigger size (you said you don't really care), anc, more cost-effective, etc. The biggest advantage of P2S over S1 Max is the BBL's ecosystem, but considering you want to make RC car parts, use engineering filament, and live with an Ender 5 Plus, I think this shouldn't bother you much.

    Answers to your specific questions:

    - I think S1 Max is a good choice for engineering filaments. Forget about P2S if you really want to print them.

    - I haven't encountered any issue with bed warping. The first layer isn't perfect yet, but it's very close. After one or two firmware updates, this should be solved. Even with the current firmware, it's a very reliable printer.

    - Filament waste during color change is on par with the competitors. Much less waste than K3, slightly less waste than S1.

    - AC certainly has listened to customers. S1 Max is now very well-built (compact and good-looking), and ACE Pro 2 now has a good silicon seal, higher drying temp, faster load&unload speed, and ceramic input holes. Imo, AC is the most humble among all the 3D printer companies, and that's why I love them.

    Thank you very much for responding very quickly.
    I know I can get an aftermarket enclosure heater. But I know the BBL AMS 2 does not stay heated and drying while printing. I did see a video where AC did say they designed the S1 max to print engineer grade filiament. I was mainly worried about the thin buikd plate and all the error codes I see the orginal S1 getting. Looks like I can get the Max with 2 AMS pros, a spring plate and some filiament for $1,200 . Which i have saved up. The PS2 is about the same if I get the 2 AMS 2 with it. So was that's why I was having trouble trying to decide which one. Especially with the Max largely untested. Basically a leap of faith. But ordering now will save me a few hundred. Vs waiting till they are totally released

  • I'd like to see a first layer on the S1 Max, since many comments say it's not perfect.

  • can you run standard flow rate test wit pla? what is the max flow rate with this printer?

    25 with AC white PLA Basic (older version with non-reusable spool)

    So pretty much the same as current s1 hotend..

  • Hoe hot does thr Ace Pro 2 get for drying? Is it still only good for PLa and PETG or can it get to higher temps?

    Just curious, How did you become a beta tester? I would love to be one and make content for my YT channel.

    According to their website, ACE Pro 2 can get up to 65 degrees. Yeah, mostly for PLA, PETG, and TPU drying.

    I am a designer on Makeronline and have had a few AC machines, so I got in touch with AC, and they allowed me to try their new machines.

    Does it actually get up to 65C? I feel like my Ace Pro doesn't get up to 55 C when I set it at that. The last time I put a thermometer, it was only at like 48 C.

    I just ran the ACE Pro 2 for 30 min set at 65 degrees, and the interior was able to reach 57 degrees when the screen says it's 63 degrees. Maybe 65 is reachable when it is turned on for longer?

  • How's the filament swap speed? If you have a P1S or other Bambu, how is it relative speaking? Or in comparison to the S1? 

    I'll do more testing tomorrow. It's definitely faster than S1 with an OG ACE Pro. I have a P1S with AMS Pro 2 (not OG). The rolling speed of ACE Pro 2 is slower than that of AMS Pro 2, but that doesn't necessarily mean slower color change, since S1/S1M has the hub closer to the printer. Will let you know the result tomorrow.

    Thanks! 

    The result is out.

    My test method: used one white and one dark gray PLA. Drew a color tower with 2 mm thick white on top of 2 mm thick gray, and then repeated. Used the default flush values for all printers. Measure the color changing time between white -> gray. The color-changing time interval is measured between when the nozzle leaves the target part and starts printing the prime towel.

    S1 Max with ACE Pro 2: 1'42''

    S1 with OG ACE Pro: 2'47''

    P1S with AMS Pro 2: 2'03''

    So the S1 Max is the fastest among the three, even with the longest PTFE tube between where the filament enters the printer and the printhead. I think it still has room for improvement. The system isn't taking full advantage of the speed of brushless motors inside ACE Pro 2.

    *Limitation of the test: AMS Pro 2 & P1S color changing time can vary greatly, as some people cut the PTFE tube that goes from the AMS to the buffer short to save time. My test used the PTFE tube that came with my AMS (original length).

    Awesome! Hopefully they can squeeze out some more speed but beating a P1S with a Pro 2 is impressive for a non-tool changer. Thanks for testing! You're definitely going to be a valuable beta tester for them/us. Can't wait to get my hands on one! 

    Yep, I was really surprised too. Thanks for the nice words!

  • I didn't think beta machines had shipped yet.

    Then please explain where all my pictures come from...

    Yeah, just saying neither myself nor other members in the beta test program have received shipping notifications yet. So if you have one then shipping time must be close 🤓

    What country are you in?

    I'm in the US

    Cool...how long have you had it?

    Also, based on what I know, AC ships out test units by wave. The first wave was early this month, then some later in the month. So the beta program I'm in can have nothing to do with others in a different beta program.

    It hasn't been that way in the past. It's interesting though. The betas were selected through social media challenges. You said you reached out to Anycubic for the opportunity. So maybe there is a different type of partnership that you are part of.

    Anyways, it's good to see the S1 out in the wild. Keep us posted on your progress. Are you on other social platforms also?

    Yeah, I got my chance not through social media challenges. I have social media accounts, but I rarely post anything lol. I'm mostly just using Makeronline/MakerWorld.

    You mind sharing yours? Maybe I can subscribe.

  • How many other Anycubic machines do you own and how long have you been printing? 💞

    Right now, I have 5 Anycubic machines at home. I've been printing for 9 years.

    How many do you own as a mod?

    7 with 3 more coming. Are you planning on using rinkhals?

    wow, you must have a big house. I'll try rinkhals after my retail unit arrive, so I can do some comparison. 

    Rinkhals has been the bane of my existence for a while now. It doesn't do proper mapping on the S1 and will show different patterns and mountains on the bed that don't exist. If you get it to work accurately that'd be awesome

    I see a sidewinder. I just sold, my X1. We must have similar taste :)

    That's very pretty! 

    Not trying to make you feel outted, sorry for making you feel defensive if that's what's going on there. Anyways, if you've got that experience behind you I trust your judgment as having mechanical aptitude and above that of a typical "Maker".

    Oh no no no, I don't feel defensive at all. Sorry for making you feel that way. I was actually just curious about how many printers a mod typically own haha. 

    Im kinda obsessed with printing 😆 If you have a channel I wanna follow and check it out, I mostly do Facebook and tiktok but not a huge social media thing. If you wanna get more into it think about getting one of those sheds people keep getting repossessed, they're wildly affordable. I got mine as a 14x24 foot building and all my printers are there now, I also build gas powered wood airplanes in it. One sec I'll get a pic, they're only about 250 a month and 3k to pay off

    nah, I don't really use social media. I don't have a Facebook (because I don't want to give my pic to Facebook when registering) or Tiktok (because I prefer long videos and use my computer more) haha. Do you have a YouTube account that I can subscribe? 

    Dang, I wish I can afford a house soon. Living in an apartment now and saving for a house. Will keep the sheds in mind, and thanks for sharing! 

    I got 2 sidewinders on the 60 dollar deal but I'm giving them away, one is boxed and the other is ready to go to a friend who wants to start printing. There's also a Sculpto2, they're discontinued and selling their final stock. Sculpto2 was insane as a polar printer. You're right about similar taste 😆 I sold my X1 to the guy at Sonic about a year ago but I didn't pay full price for it either. Here's how the Sculpto looks running, I have 4 more in the house https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/vCWSNXgC23

    Sculpto looks cute, but I am surprised by its print quality

  • What filament are you testing with? What is the speed and expansion for the filament you're testing with? My first S1 came with an accidental low speed bundle of filament

    I didn't receive any filament from AC with this printer. I've been printing using AC PLA basic, PLA+, PLA HS, Overture Easy PLA and ASA.

    I ran all my PLA at a volumetric speed of 22 on S1M. I don't recall about ASA. I was using the default ABS preset and didn't bother with calibrating it.

    Could you elaborate on what you mean by expansion?

    An example is to poop out some silk and watch it expand. You. may not have silk yet for the S1 Max. If you poop out silk it will expand like crazy. PLA won't expand as much and TPU barely expands at all. Silk expansion is one of the issues that cause clogs, I'm curious about the dual fan cooling and it's affect on silk printing

    Oh, I see. I just made 2 PLA silk prints, and they seem fine. The Orca cube is very accurate in dimensions.

  • The main board the same as on s1? Do you have specification (ram/soc)?

    Same MCU as S1: Rockchip RV1106G3

    Different EMMC (now 8G): SiliconGo SGM8000C-S27B8G

  • Is it easy to change hotend/nozzle?

    Yes, nozzle swap with S1 Max is very simple, unlike the hotend swap design like on S1. There is no more hassle with unplugging the cables of the thermistor and heaters.

    The official intro video on YouTube shows this at 2'03''

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzN-yWczujU

  • I see the plate a little thin, I hope it doesn't suffer from the problems we are used to 😉

    Yeah, the first layer is close to perfect with the current firmware, but I hope AC will get it perfect in later firmware updates.

    Update: after a recent firmware update, pretty much perfect first layer now.

  • What are the actual measurements of the build plate (not volume) and what are the measurements of the footprint where it sits on rubber feet on the bottom (what size desk is needed)?

    Build plate: 360x360 without the handle, or 360x370 with the handle.

    Machine size: from the front door to the back of the machine, with some space for the power cable: 550 mm; width 490 mm.

    Just the rubber feet: 455x455.

  • IS IT WORTH THE PRICE

    It's just impossible to beat the price of this machine when it comes to 350 cubed machine with multi-color capability.

    good to know thank you

  • I currently own a Anycubic Kobra S1 Combo, and I have purchased an S1 Max Combo, which will be delivered to Europe at the end of March 2026.

    I have a few questions, because I want to be prepared with a cabinet in which the Anycubic Kobra S1 Combo Max 3D printer will be installed.

    What are the dimensions of the 3D Printer, without ACE2?

    How tall is the 3D printer, including the rubber feet, but without ACE2?

    Where do the two fans from inside (on the left and right) draw air from?

    Is the interior lighting ok, compared to the S1 Combo (which is not really ok)?

    Can you set the ACE2 to maintain a certain humidity, or does it just inform you what the humidity inside is?

    Did you receive the filament roll holder that mounts on the left side, rear, in the package? If so, can you post some pictures of what it looks like and how it is mounted?

    Are the settings in the Anycubic Slicer Next software optimized for the Kobra S1 Max Combo?

    Please post more photos from all sides, including from above, even from the inside.

    Can you lift the PEI board and take a picture of the hotbed?

    - Dimensions of the printer, without ACE Pro 2, but with space for the power cables: about 490 wide, 500 deep, and 600 mm tall.

    - The auxiliary fans draw air from the outside.

    - The light intensity is higher in the S1 Max than in S1. Though I personally find S1 to be already bright enough.

    - ACE doesn't allow me to set a constant humidity. It only tells me the humidity inside.

    - The external spool holder goes on the left side. It is mounted to the back plate. See the pic below. I'm holding it by hand just to demo its use.

    - The slicer isn't optimized for the S1 Max yet, but AC is working on it. Slicer preset is the last major missing piece for the machine imo.

    https://preview.redd.it/tbsk70fo47ag1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ee841183d2a934ee5fe0291a069a5c31cc01da39

    Thanks for the answers. Can you take a picture from behind the printer, please? And from the air intake area to the 2 fans? Can you put a picture to see what the hotbed looks like without the PEI plate?

  • I sold my Kobra S1 and bought a bamboo H2C. The best decision of my life! Zero problems with bed leveling and a million other things. I hate to say it, Anycubic is way, way behind bamboo.

    Eh... you are serious? Comparing a $460 machine with a $2400 machine...

  • How did you go about being asked to test the system?

    My situation is very difficult to explain, just a bunch of coincidences that allowed me to build connections with some of their headquarters. We had a good time, and I got the opportunity to try their new products.

  • Does it support LAN only?

    According to its website, it does support LAN only.

  • How’s the bed levelling and the ace pro 2 feed system, also based on what they have given you for beta testing and the short time before retail ship end of February, only changes I could foresee would be firmware at this stage. Unit looks good as is, will be watching your updates as I do have one on order. Cheers

    Thanks for that sounds good looking forward to delivery

  • Are you going to be making a YouTube video of it?

    I feel like the machine isn't ready for a complete review yet, maybe I can briefly walk through the design of the machine if there is interest.

    Yes, that would be very interesting.