Max volumetric speed test goes wrong
I’ve had the Anycubic Kobra S1 for a few weeks now. So far, my prints have been pretty good, as I’ve already tweaked the settings quite a bit.
Since I’ve started running into new issues, I decided to calibrate the printer using every relevant test. The temperature tower showed the best results for black Anycubic PLA at 190 °C.
Next, I wanted to continue with the maximum volumetric speed test. However, after two runs, I kept getting the exact same result, so I stopped the test halfway and decided to ask for help.
To be honest, I’m not even sure what this test is supposed to tell me at this point, because I haven’t had issues this severe before — not even before I decided to start doing all these calibrations.
I’m not really sure what the problem is here. Maybe someone can help me out :/

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Update after i bumped the temperature up to 220°C again, because someone in another subreddit told me 190°C would be to low
https://preview.redd.it/zztsji2u3t9g1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=438625fee777dbfd739b63d20fe05a6ba282634d
I think the first layer just went badly. No adhesion, not even the brim, Clean the PEI well with hot water and soap or isopropyl alcohol and set the Z offset correctly, be careful when the printer does its Z homing, the nozzle is clean otherwise it induces an offset
Basic PLA does not have a high volumetric speed, so with such a low temperature, it is normal for the tests to be poor in my opinion.
The higher you increase the temperature, the more you increase the maximum volumetric speed until the quality deteriorates
Although the temperature tower shows a correct test at 190°C, Anycubic PLA is closer to 210°C with good cooling. Also note that the more humid a filament is, the less meaningful the calibrations will be.
Dry the filament properly. Don't hesitate to raise the temperature to 50°C with the Ace Pro. Its insulation is fairly poor, and the thermometer inside shows a temperature of only 40°C. Do this for at least 8 hours or more but check the internal temperature just in case.
Then recalibrate the filament at a temperature of 205/210°C for a brass nozzle (add 5/10° if using a metal nozzle), such as: flow rate, pressure advance. Then try again a maximum volumetric speed test
First of all, thanks for your input.
I cleaned the print bed exactly as you described. The nozzle temperature is back at 210 °C, and I also adjusted the Z-offset slightly.
At first, it looked better, but then the print started to lose adhesion on the curves and lifted up the print bed, so I canceled the test again.
What could cause this issue besides print bed cleanliness?
Oh, well, this filament is prone to warping. Internal tensions must build up, and after a while, the adhesion to the plate is no longer sufficient and it comes loose
There is a slight gap between the part and the brim. In "Other > Brim > Brim-object gap," you can try setting it to 0 so that the part is welded to the brim and is less likely to come off
What are your bed and first layer temperatures? Also avoid activating the auxiliary fan, as it tends to cause the PLA to shrink and detach thin parts having little grip on the plate and those too close of it
My first layer temperature is also 210 °C, and bed temperature is at 55°C. Should I try to put the auxiliary fan to 0%?
I already now put the brim-object gap to 0%, im just waiting for your answer for the auxiliary faauxiliary fan setting and I will try again :)
For the tests I put the auxiliary fan at 0%, then here it will detach the part more than anything else
okay I will try it now then
You are a life saver. I don't know how I can thank you.
It almost seems that it would be better in general to keep the auxiliary fan low or off, isn't it?
https://preview.redd.it/jc50l43zqu9g1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a7dc036d16e36f6f956f2e3e1e1147306225893d
But also i noticed that the printer is slightly darker the first 20 layers or so. Is this an indicator for something?
https://preview.redd.it/ci7yqm8qru9g1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dc58d33cba3f57bc85a93bfbfe9361ebf3f55208
On the first layers, as they are slower, the cooling is different from the other layers, which creates a different color. This is especially noticeable with matte filaments, where the faster you go, the shinier they become
For your print you can leave the auxiliary fan on as long as it doesn't interfere with the adhesion of the part on the plate
Alright, thanks for all your input