Adhesives on labels don't stick to anything but flat surfaces very well. So textured plastics, including 3d prints, are troublesome.
Either redesign it with card style label holders, use a stronger glue for the labels, or use something like duct tape that sticks to the plastic and lets the label stick to it.
I've had great success using a small hot glue gun. A bead of glue on the back of the label (wear gloves, the labels transmit heat VERY well, but even regular latex gloves work well unless you have a BIG label that needs lots of glue) and press in place.
It won't be as even as if you applied the label to a smooth surface, but it has worked for my purposes (identifying things)...
Of course, I have been doing other hobbies for decades, so I own multiple hot glue guns...
Worth noting that some labels of this type are thermally printed, so pushing it straight onto hot glue might end up with a black rectangle instead of a label. Good shout though, I've used a hot glue gun to attach a bunch of 3d printed parts together with no issues.
😂 thanks for the down votes. i'm still not wrong. you people want to suggest the worst possible way for him to achieve the goal, then he shall soon find out.
I used super glue on a print the other day and left it to cure a bit. Came back a couple of hours later and the glue had either wicked, or gassed around the piece and caused it to discolor a little. It was Gorilla brand if that matters.
Drop the gorilla glue. Never had anything but problems from it.
Seems like I hardly ever hear anyone mention 3M Scotch-Weld for plastic and rubber. Works an absolute treat and the bottles fit with some of the push on needle tip applicators (looks kinda like a hummingbirds beak) so you can drip ultra precise amounts exactly where you want them. They have a few formulas. The PR400 series are a bit thinner like traditional CA glue and the PR1500 is more gel like but stronger so I use it for big surface glue ups or vertical surfaces since the gel doesn't run as easily. Even works on pure silicone
Thanks for the advice. I'll see if I can get my hands on Scotch Weld from 3M in the different types. I needed something while I was at a hardware store and it was readily available. Like it was mentioned in another comment, it was a whitish residue left behind. I used a cotton swap dipped it 91% iso alcohol and it didn't seem to remove the residue. It wasn't for a functional purpose though, I made a customized model and added a small emblem to it I printed.
Sometimes if it's just a haze, you can clear it with a gentle hit from a heat gun or blow dryer. Same for and light scratches or scuff marks such a those you get from removing supports on darker filaments. Heat gun can also be handy for getting rid of fine stringing,
Yeah, I tried a heat gun in my garage but with it being PLA, I was fearful of softening it too much and warping the model or making it look like a liquid spot with too much heat. It does work real well with stringing though.
Never had issues with discoloration on my PLA prints, it does leave it a white residue if I don't wipe off excess though. Using Gluemaster's CA glue, pink label, so I guess it's something to do with gorilla's formulation interacting with the additives in PLA. Fwiw I've used it on a variety of PLA from bambulabs, basic, matte, silk, metal, etc.
Worth adding that they don't disclose basically anything about what's in it. It has some sort of resin additives that help with the sealant properties and prevent discoloration, but it's effectively a mystery liquid.
Nah, some people just think that it's weird to ask "what is this" on reddit when you could just type that into the Google search bar and get an answer in a fraction of a second. Or are you trying to say that there aren't search engines outside of 'merka?
nah, i'm saying context matters. i replied mod podge without thinking there are people in the world that might not know that i'm talking about a product that can be purchased, and as i did not capitalize letters for a noun, what i typed out could have been confused for an action instead of an object. if you look at that person's other comments, you'll see that not all of them are in english.
It’s a thin acrylic glue-like substance. It’s super useful for any kind of crafting. Also just good stuff to have on hand. I keep two bottles; one that my family can find easily so they can use it and another that I store with my model/D&D terrain making supplies. It’s pretty cheap if you hit a sale at a place like Michael’s.
Edited to add that I wouldn’t use it to try and smooth out layers, but I haven’t tried. Maybe someone else can give some info on that use.
I don’t think I’ve seen that where I live, but I’ll try to find it, I’d have to go out of my way to do so.
Might order some online if I find it cheap enough
I think it’s really just a mix of acrylic paint medium and glue, so you might look for some DIY recipes.
Edited to add that I just looked a bit, and most recipes just say to mix PVA glue and water. I don’t think that’s enough; I’d look at adding a small amount of acrylic paint medium or sealer (matte or glossy based on your preference) to the mix.
You can definitely make some yourself, or close enough anyway. Regular white glue (Elmers or equivalent) plus I think paint medium? But look online first for DIY mod podge, it might be cheaper than ordering it.
For me the only adhesives that reliably sticks to non flat surfaces are thicker one that are able to reach into the uneveness of the surface. Products like gorilla tape and Alien double sided tape works too well sometime on printed parts
I have this same issue but don’t want an actual holder so I make an indent and then fill that area with a cheap brush on superglue to fill the layer lines and attach the label
I've had a little peeling on the edges of some of my labels but nothing like in your picture. All I can suggest is trying different brands of label for one with better adhesion.
I know I'm late to the party, but if you have any nail polish handy its a good way to smooth out the rough surface and leave a finish good enough for a sticker to grab onto.
You can print small labels from PLA with the 3D printer and glue them to the box. I design a small plate with 0.5mm thickness and put text on top with 0.2mm thickness. I use manuel color change between plate and text and print with 0.1mm layer height.
I use a P-touch with genuine Brother labels (not even the extra sticky ones) and I have zero issues sticking them on my PLA prints. I can even peel them off and stick them back on several times.
However, I do usually stick them to the top surface and I use matte filament. Maybe one of those makes a difference.
Another data point here - matte PLA. P touch with off brand labels, also sticking to non layered surfaces (top or bottom) and never had an issue either!
You could also be forehand create and incorporate a slot for the label into your the print or glue a printed piece with a label slot onto the dry box. It’s a simple model ngl you could make it in tinkercad.
I was going to ask if this is their first rodeo or have they been checked with other surfaces to see that they stick properly elsewhere. Might be bad labels.
Plastic has a "low surface energy" meaning standard adhesive wont stick, you would need a self adhesive vinyl with a "high tac" adhesive designed for this use, Ask a local sign shop if they have any, get the unprinted vinyl and apply, then you can stick your standard self adhesive labels to the high-tac vinyl, Also some heat from a heat gun and pressure when applying will help activate the adhesive.
Applying a solvent to smooth the surface would also significantly increase the adhesive's surface area.
Alternatively, you could mask off the area and spray on a plastic primer, available from a hardware store. This will prove a better, smoother, higher surface energy for the adhesive
Otherwise, just cut some panels/sheets of another product/plastic sheet and glue them on first as a base, then apply to that.
Are those knockoff labels? I’ve noticed mine never stick well even to perfectly flat. I still buy them cause screw the name brand tax but I’ll use tape or glue depending on mood.
Note that label adhesives have a shelf life of approximately 2 years. If it's an old label roll, the adhesive will have deteriorated, which could be affecting your labels more than new labels.
Please see my other comment on low-surface-energy and high-tack adhesives for labels.
If not used, the adhesive deteriorates over time, so it won't stick as well initially as it's already lost some of its tack. Once applied to the surface, the adhesive activates and bonds to it, creating a lasting bond. Its lifespan is longer, but total lifespan depends on many factors, such as temperature, humidity, and sunlight/UV exposure.
I use label paper with a dot of super glue. Regular printer paper works, but the edges curl up and the super glue can bleed through if you use too much. In my experience, inkjet label paper, the same thickness as regular paper, no fancy finish, works great when held on by super glue. The edges don't come up so easily, and the adhesive prevents the super glue from bleeding through the paper.
When the label is fixing to a surface that is not smooth the glue doesn't have much to grab onto. Either add some glue or use a hairdryer to melt the label adhesive a bit.
The default Dymo labels don’t stick to PLA for any reasonable length of time. I had really good adhesion with the “durable” version, but it seems like it’s been discontinued (possibly just post-Covid supply chain issues). The “permanent” version is an ok replacement, it’s not permanent on PLA.
Can I also suggest using maybe a smooth plate and printing on the side on which the the label will need to stick to? Assuming you have a smooth plate already
One of my friends puts the label in a hole designed in the print and then prints two layers of clear pla on top to seal it in. I dont know if its helpful given you alredy have the containers printed but you could give it a try in the future
At my work we typically use 3M's 94 primer for getting label/wraps to stick to polymer surfaces better. They say it's meant for polyethylene, polypropylene, ABS, PET/PBT and "other difficult to stick substrates"
I've haven't tried it on PLA yet but I'm sure it would likely do the trick. They sell them in smaller pen size applicators, just make sure you use it with good ventilation/outdoors since it's pretty fumy
Do a second small print to encapsulate the label. You could even cut a piece of transparency sheet as a protective slide. Then hot glue the encapsulated label to the box.
In the future incorporate the second print into the box.
Paint the surface with a slight amount of nail polish remover. The acetone will dissolve the surface, fuse the layers, and leave a smooth, flat finish. You can also do a vapor treatment by pouring some acetone into a polypropylene container, setting your parts on some standoffs, then leaving it for ~90 mins. That got me silky smooth parts.
I was experimenting with vinyl on PLA this weekend and had really good results with heat transfer vinyl sticking to bottom and top of print surfaces very well. There are some printable ones.
Just hit the PLA with a heat gun briefly to get it warm to the touch, stick the vinyl, hit it again and squeegee it down.
Try printing in PLA matte, it has less viable layer lines and adhesives like tape work well. Also try super glue it bond amazing with plastic and will get into the cracks of the layer lines causing even better sticking.
You can rub the area with a bit of goof off (zylene) before applying sometimes. Or you can brush on a bit of contact cement and let dry before applying.
3d print a little paper holder like the sleeves you put IDs in and glue it to the front. The just stick the labels to a thin bit of cardboard.
You could use superglue, epoxy or even whiteout to fill in the gaps and add some texture for better adhesion. While sanding filling priming and painting the eat way f**k that it’s too much effort.
Well, first thing that comes to mind is clear paint either under or over the label. Over will seal the edges from lifting. A gloss clear under the label (let dry first) will give you a smoother surface to stick to.
But I'd probably be lazy and try a dot of super glue first.
I always clean the surface with some alcohol and haven't had much issue with labels. But if you have cheap labels with lousy adhesive that could be part of the problem.
I just put a label on my recent print of a card game box and it's stuck like a champ.
You could try (try it on one container at first to experiment) spraying a few layers of clear coat on it. That should fill all the micro gaps and create a smooth surface for the label glue to grab on to.
Assuming this is the side wall? Ironed tops or smooth PEI printed bottoms works fine with labels, but side walls is sort of a losing battle for labels unless you want to use some kind of gummy adhesive or glue - aka too much trouble.
A fix for the design itself is to print a flat piece face doen you then insert into a sidewall crevice and glue it in place to adhere labels to.
Since these are already done, it depends if you want to change the labels later or not. If you want to replace them later I’d consider this:
1. CA glue down a blank label wide enough for any label you’d place here
2. adhere your label to the blank glued down one and peel off later without damage.
3M Primer 94 might work, it made the stickers on my kayak bond very well, so well that when I remove them the adhesive peels off the back of the sticker and I have to clean off with a solvent.
I don't understand why everyone is downvoting you. Even if that isn't the right solution (to be clear I have no idea), it seems wildly unjustified to downvote your comment.
What brand label stock? My label maker is a Brother brand, and they offer both normal and "strong adhesive" tape in some sizes. I've found the "strong adhesive" version sticks pretty well to prints, while the regular stuff peels off.
P-Touch is made by Brother, so check the Brother website to see if any of the tape cartridges used by your model come in the "Strong Adhesive" variant. It holds far better than the regular adhesive.
You have the technology to emboss the label into the box. Why not just do that? I suppose you just want to make use of those you already printed, but something to consider in future projects.
that makes no sense. I would have to customize the embossing for each box. Yes you can add lettering in the slicer but it would be an insanely involved process to track everything as you print and reslice with new lettering for each box.
If I use a label maker I can slice once and just reprint batches over and over.
For a handful of boxes sure embossing would be cool, but I already told you I need to do hundreds.
I'm really not trying to be obtuse here. I'm just eally not getting how it's any more effort than copying a bunch of boxes, then opening another program and typing the labels, printing them, peeling and sticking them to the box, and then doing some other post processing to keep them from peeling off the box. Create one box that's embossed. Copy it as many times as you want. Then just change the text, same as typing it onto labels.
Either way you've got to type the names and keep track of what ones you have done.
Adhesives on labels don't stick to anything but flat surfaces very well. So textured plastics, including 3d prints, are troublesome.
Either redesign it with card style label holders, use a stronger glue for the labels, or use something like duct tape that sticks to the plastic and lets the label stick to it.
what glue would work here?
https://thistothat.com/
Handy site. Doesn't have paper (use wood) but I just wanted an excuse to share it.
It definitely has paper.
Cool site but toxic ads.
No adblock in 2025? Oh my, you have a great nerve system to withstand that
Ad blockers do not work when I open a website through Reddit's app.
Custom DNS? Like adguard DNS or something similar
kebab menu > open in Firefox
Pi hole for your wlan
I have a pihole at home, I am traveling now and using either mobile data or hotel wifi.
Seriously. How do people function without it? It's like having someone grind their hemorrhoids in your face.
Hey, No kinkshaming
Firefox + ublock origin
I know it doesn't excuse the website but keep yourself safe
I love the little 16 bit icons they are using. These are some proper old school ones, too!
CA glue is always a safe bet.
Others said wood glue because it would give a smooth surface to stick the label to.
I was imagining a tacky spray-on style glue.
Really, just something sticky/tacky enough to hold onto plastic.
I've had great success using a small hot glue gun. A bead of glue on the back of the label (wear gloves, the labels transmit heat VERY well, but even regular latex gloves work well unless you have a BIG label that needs lots of glue) and press in place.
It won't be as even as if you applied the label to a smooth surface, but it has worked for my purposes (identifying things)...
Of course, I have been doing other hobbies for decades, so I own multiple hot glue guns...
Worth noting that some labels of this type are thermally printed, so pushing it straight onto hot glue might end up with a black rectangle instead of a label. Good shout though, I've used a hot glue gun to attach a bunch of 3d printed parts together with no issues.
Cyanoacrylate aka super glue also probably wouldn't work for the same reason, it's exothermic
Worked fine when I tried it! 😁
https://preview.redd.it/omvih3t5tt9g1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dd4f9aa69018e3b93f5f727d088709c245a824e8
😂 thanks for the down votes. i'm still not wrong. you people want to suggest the worst possible way for him to achieve the goal, then he shall soon find out.
True or not, the AI "summaries" have been known to be wrong before, so it's not a good way to prove something.
i'm not trying to prove anything other than the fact that this is not ideal for the purpose within the context OP has provided.
all down votes considered, we have yet to hear about whether or not OP is even humoring the suggestion of using hot glue for this purpose, so... 💁🏻♂️
fairly certain hot glue will deform PLA
It might get a little soft for a few minutes but even high temp hot glue doesn't outright melt PLA.
i said it will DEFORM, which is exactly what "get a little soft for a few minutes" is
the down voting is hilarious. don't you all realize that hot glue guns are functionally the same as the hot end on a printer...?
😂
I've hot glued plenty of 3D prints together.
"could" does not mean "does". I downvoted him because the comment incorrectly suggests that it's a bad idea.
😂😂😂 context matters.
he's NOT gluing prints together. he's trying to get labels to stick to a printed part.
you all can read the first comment that suggests hot glue... "use gloves, be quick" just because the tool works, doesn't mean it fixes every problem.
it's all good though, i guess people like to shout when they're right and i'm no different.
The hot glue doesn't care whether it's two prints or a print and a label.
People like to loudly shout when they're incorrect and you are indeed no different.
Not that I’ve experienced, though maybe there are different temp levels.
Super glue perhaps?
There are some very think super glues people use when building plastic models that would work well
Superglue works great
I used super glue on a print the other day and left it to cure a bit. Came back a couple of hours later and the glue had either wicked, or gassed around the piece and caused it to discolor a little. It was Gorilla brand if that matters.
Drop the gorilla glue. Never had anything but problems from it.
Seems like I hardly ever hear anyone mention 3M Scotch-Weld for plastic and rubber. Works an absolute treat and the bottles fit with some of the push on needle tip applicators (looks kinda like a hummingbirds beak) so you can drip ultra precise amounts exactly where you want them. They have a few formulas. The PR400 series are a bit thinner like traditional CA glue and the PR1500 is more gel like but stronger so I use it for big surface glue ups or vertical surfaces since the gel doesn't run as easily. Even works on pure silicone
Thanks for the advice. I'll see if I can get my hands on Scotch Weld from 3M in the different types. I needed something while I was at a hardware store and it was readily available. Like it was mentioned in another comment, it was a whitish residue left behind. I used a cotton swap dipped it 91% iso alcohol and it didn't seem to remove the residue. It wasn't for a functional purpose though, I made a customized model and added a small emblem to it I printed.
Sometimes if it's just a haze, you can clear it with a gentle hit from a heat gun or blow dryer. Same for and light scratches or scuff marks such a those you get from removing supports on darker filaments. Heat gun can also be handy for getting rid of fine stringing,
Yeah, I tried a heat gun in my garage but with it being PLA, I was fearful of softening it too much and warping the model or making it look like a liquid spot with too much heat. It does work real well with stringing though.
Yeah, with PLA you have to have the heat turned down a bit and keep it moving, same as you would while ironing clothes.
Never had issues with discoloration on my PLA prints, it does leave it a white residue if I don't wipe off excess though. Using Gluemaster's CA glue, pink label, so I guess it's something to do with gorilla's formulation interacting with the additives in PLA. Fwiw I've used it on a variety of PLA from bambulabs, basic, matte, silk, metal, etc.
That's a better description. It was a white residue left behind but my 91% iso alcohol didn't phase it any.
Epoxy
Hotglue
In his case I would 3d print the labels separately and glue them
Me too… we like brush on crazy glue… it is a bit thicker (less runny) and easier to apply for this application.
Would sanding it work to help it stick better?
I haven't tried it. But it has to be very smooth. Like, glossy smooth. Unless you get up to the thousands, I doubt sanding will get it smooth enough.
I have only sanded 1 printed model, and it sucked. I'll do anything to avoid sanding plastic again
Electrical tape is the answer to this problem
A small label sized strip of electrical tape won't stick to plastic long term. Gorilla glue tape is my go-to.
adhesives stick best to flat surfaces, and printed surfaces are not flat because of micro gaps between layers.
maybe try applying a thin layer of mod podge, because that should dry tacky enough for adhesives to stick?
i've used mod podge as a primer before painting. it sticks really well to 3D prints.
Mod podge fixes everything
Recently been using it to transfer images off of paper onto my prints, for things like decals on aircraft. It's absolutely amazing!
Can you elaborate on what you mean by this? Sounds really cool.
I’m intrigued, what’s mod podge?
It's mostly PVA glue sold as a paint-on sealant and primer.
Worth adding that they don't disclose basically anything about what's in it. It has some sort of resin additives that help with the sealant properties and prevent discoloration, but it's effectively a mystery liquid.
Thanks for answering. Apparently my question generated some snide from other redditors.
us -merkins too often assume everyone else is posting from -merka
Nah, some people just think that it's weird to ask "what is this" on reddit when you could just type that into the Google search bar and get an answer in a fraction of a second. Or are you trying to say that there aren't search engines outside of 'merka?
nah, i'm saying context matters. i replied mod podge without thinking there are people in the world that might not know that i'm talking about a product that can be purchased, and as i did not capitalize letters for a noun, what i typed out could have been confused for an action instead of an object. if you look at that person's other comments, you'll see that not all of them are in english.
It’s a thin acrylic glue-like substance. It’s super useful for any kind of crafting. Also just good stuff to have on hand. I keep two bottles; one that my family can find easily so they can use it and another that I store with my model/D&D terrain making supplies. It’s pretty cheap if you hit a sale at a place like Michael’s.
Edited to add that I wouldn’t use it to try and smooth out layers, but I haven’t tried. Maybe someone else can give some info on that use.
I don’t think I’ve seen that where I live, but I’ll try to find it, I’d have to go out of my way to do so. Might order some online if I find it cheap enough
I think it’s really just a mix of acrylic paint medium and glue, so you might look for some DIY recipes.
Edited to add that I just looked a bit, and most recipes just say to mix PVA glue and water. I don’t think that’s enough; I’d look at adding a small amount of acrylic paint medium or sealer (matte or glossy based on your preference) to the mix.
You can definitely make some yourself, or close enough anyway. Regular white glue (Elmers or equivalent) plus I think paint medium? But look online first for DIY mod podge, it might be cheaper than ordering it.
https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=mod+podge
*blinks*
For me the only adhesives that reliably sticks to non flat surfaces are thicker one that are able to reach into the uneveness of the surface. Products like gorilla tape and Alien double sided tape works too well sometime on printed parts
Used mod podge to make some Christmas presents with my prints! 100% this
I have this same issue but don’t want an actual holder so I make an indent and then fill that area with a cheap brush on superglue to fill the layer lines and attach the label
I've made 30+ of these containers and the labels keep peeling back. Did I make a bad choice of material?
I found that wood glue or all purpose glue can be used to make a flat surface once hardened. Labels stick to that perfectly
Pretty clever.
Oh hey, I designed those!
I've had a little peeling on the edges of some of my labels but nothing like in your picture. All I can suggest is trying different brands of label for one with better adhesion.
Awesome boxes! I've tried a million solutions for small electronics parts and settled on your design with gridfinity trays as the best solution.
My label tape is super old and probably generic brand. I'll try ordering a fresh name brand role.
I know I'm late to the party, but if you have any nail polish handy its a good way to smooth out the rough surface and leave a finish good enough for a sticker to grab onto.
I’ll have to go check again but I’ve printed a ton of labels with my basic Dymo and none of them have had issues sticking on flat prints.
Having tested dymo stickers vs random aliexpress ones, I can say that the random aliexpress ones stick a lot better.
That said, use a layer of paint, resin, medium or pva glue and stick it to that once dry.
I also really like your little boxes! Thank you for publishing the fusion file, I learned a lot from it.
I agree that better labels will probably solve OPs problem.
I use a bit of tape on either end of the label. E.g:
| ----- |
Just use a thick double-sided tape, my custom made electric toothbrush holder has been taped to a wall for over a year and it is holds strong.
You can print small labels from PLA with the 3D printer and glue them to the box. I design a small plate with 0.5mm thickness and put text on top with 0.2mm thickness. I use manuel color change between plate and text and print with 0.1mm layer height.
No pla is fine
I'm pretty sure any PLA is fine ;)
Lmao
I use a P-touch with genuine Brother labels (not even the extra sticky ones) and I have zero issues sticking them on my PLA prints. I can even peel them off and stick them back on several times.
However, I do usually stick them to the top surface and I use matte filament. Maybe one of those makes a difference.
I am seeing a lot of people saying labels have a hard time sticking to prints, but I am in the same boat as you.
I stick labels to bottom, top, and sides of prints, PLA, PETG, ASA, no issues at all.
Another data point here - matte PLA. P touch with off brand labels, also sticking to non layered surfaces (top or bottom) and never had an issue either!
Sand that area down a little bit and they will stick better.
You could also be forehand create and incorporate a slot for the label into your the print or glue a printed piece with a label slot onto the dry box. It’s a simple model ngl you could make it in tinkercad.
Either fill the gaps in the print or sand them down.
Print a label-sized rectangle with ironing on? Then super glue that to the print and then stick the label to it
Flame-treat the surface. Torch is better than lighter. Mild passes only. Char or melt is too much. Easy alternative to plasma/corona treatment.
Put a bit of pva where you want the label and once the pva is dry your label should stick much better.
Electrical tape down first, then put the label down
Hmm I have to try this myself ngl
They also make high stick labels. They have a thicker, gummy adhesive on them, works a treat.
I was going to ask if this is their first rodeo or have they been checked with other surfaces to see that they stick properly elsewhere. Might be bad labels.
Nah, regular labels don't stick well the 3D printed parts. Especially in the heat and cold of a shop etc.
Plastic has a "low surface energy" meaning standard adhesive wont stick, you would need a self adhesive vinyl with a "high tac" adhesive designed for this use, Ask a local sign shop if they have any, get the unprinted vinyl and apply, then you can stick your standard self adhesive labels to the high-tac vinyl, Also some heat from a heat gun and pressure when applying will help activate the adhesive.
Applying a solvent to smooth the surface would also significantly increase the adhesive's surface area.
Alternatively, you could mask off the area and spray on a plastic primer, available from a hardware store. This will prove a better, smoother, higher surface energy for the adhesive
Otherwise, just cut some panels/sheets of another product/plastic sheet and glue them on first as a base, then apply to that.
duct tape, I stick the label on duct tape, then cut the tape and glue that to box - works like a charm
using proper glue on the sticker works too but PLA can go cloudy from some glue vapors so I go with 3m duct tape
Could you polish the surface with a dremel tool and then stick a label to it?
Are those knockoff labels? I’ve noticed mine never stick well even to perfectly flat. I still buy them cause screw the name brand tax but I’ll use tape or glue depending on mood.
No idea, I bought the label roll years ago. I guess I can buy a name brand one just to verify if it makes a difference
Note that label adhesives have a shelf life of approximately 2 years. If it's an old label roll, the adhesive will have deteriorated, which could be affecting your labels more than new labels.
Please see my other comment on low-surface-energy and high-tack adhesives for labels.
This roll is probably a lot older then that. Does that shelf life imply I shouldn't expect my labels to stay adhered for more then two years?
If not used, the adhesive deteriorates over time, so it won't stick as well initially as it's already lost some of its tack. Once applied to the surface, the adhesive activates and bonds to it, creating a lasting bond. Its lifespan is longer, but total lifespan depends on many factors, such as temperature, humidity, and sunlight/UV exposure.
I’d just use some clear tape or glue tbh, use up the roll. No sense in wasting it.
Thin layer of glue stick lol fills the gaps
I use label paper with a dot of super glue. Regular printer paper works, but the edges curl up and the super glue can bleed through if you use too much. In my experience, inkjet label paper, the same thickness as regular paper, no fancy finish, works great when held on by super glue. The edges don't come up so easily, and the adhesive prevents the super glue from bleeding through the paper.
Super glue should work with these labels, too
3d print the labels, too
When the label is fixing to a surface that is not smooth the glue doesn't have much to grab onto. Either add some glue or use a hairdryer to melt the label adhesive a bit.
The default Dymo labels don’t stick to PLA for any reasonable length of time. I had really good adhesion with the “durable” version, but it seems like it’s been discontinued (possibly just post-Covid supply chain issues). The “permanent” version is an ok replacement, it’s not permanent on PLA.
I have never had an issue getting the label tape (p-touch) to stick to my prints.
They make labels with higher strength adhesive that work fine. The standard label adhesive has always been crappy on most things other than paper.
You could try this: But you have to buy a roll so may not be worth it. But this stuff does stick to textured surfaces.
https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/b00026373/
Can I also suggest using maybe a smooth plate and printing on the side on which the the label will need to stick to? Assuming you have a smooth plate already
One of my friends puts the label in a hole designed in the print and then prints two layers of clear pla on top to seal it in. I dont know if its helpful given you alredy have the containers printed but you could give it a try in the future
Just use some glue.. lol
3D print the labels.
At my work we typically use 3M's 94 primer for getting label/wraps to stick to polymer surfaces better. They say it's meant for polyethylene, polypropylene, ABS, PET/PBT and "other difficult to stick substrates"
I've haven't tried it on PLA yet but I'm sure it would likely do the trick. They sell them in smaller pen size applicators, just make sure you use it with good ventilation/outdoors since it's pretty fumy
If you never need to change the label, creating a recess for it, then pouring epoxy over it I think would look really sharp!
UV craft-type resin (not printer-resin) is really convenient for encapsulation - you can get cheap kits on Amazon with a reasonable UV flashlight.
I've used it for "if I've lost my keys please email" type key-tags and it gives a pretty decent and durable finish.
Do a second small print to encapsulate the label. You could even cut a piece of transparency sheet as a protective slide. Then hot glue the encapsulated label to the box.
In the future incorporate the second print into the box.
Paint the surface with a slight amount of nail polish remover. The acetone will dissolve the surface, fuse the layers, and leave a smooth, flat finish. You can also do a vapor treatment by pouring some acetone into a polypropylene container, setting your parts on some standoffs, then leaving it for ~90 mins. That got me silky smooth parts.
Thin CA
I have decent luck applying labels from my label maker to top surfaces of PLA prints, but walls are tough because of the texture from layer lines
I've managed to make it work by putting some nail polish on the print first, let that dry smooth and then have sticker stick to that.
For this youll have luck with dymo vinyl labels.. Standard plastic labels are bad at this, brother dymo and brady are all the same.
I usually nail them on.
Sand it down a little under the label and wipe with a damp cloth to pick up all the loose particles
I was experimenting with vinyl on PLA this weekend and had really good results with heat transfer vinyl sticking to bottom and top of print surfaces very well. There are some printable ones. Just hit the PLA with a heat gun briefly to get it warm to the touch, stick the vinyl, hit it again and squeegee it down.
Design a pla label holder, then slide a label in, and glue that to the bin.
I've never had a problem with Brother TZ tape on PLA.
Your slicer software may have options to add text directly onto the model before printing. I know BambuLab does, but not about others.
Try printing in PLA matte, it has less viable layer lines and adhesives like tape work well. Also try super glue it bond amazing with plastic and will get into the cracks of the layer lines causing even better sticking.
You can rub the area with a bit of goof off (zylene) before applying sometimes. Or you can brush on a bit of contact cement and let dry before applying.
3d print a little paper holder like the sleeves you put IDs in and glue it to the front. The just stick the labels to a thin bit of cardboard.
You could use superglue, epoxy or even whiteout to fill in the gaps and add some texture for better adhesion. While sanding filling priming and painting the eat way f**k that it’s too much effort.
Brush on some clear nail polish, allow to dry then stick the label in place
I massage my labels on for a while and they seem to stick ok ish, atleast better than yours
Hot glue basically sticks anything to anything.
Well, first thing that comes to mind is clear paint either under or over the label. Over will seal the edges from lifting. A gloss clear under the label (let dry first) will give you a smoother surface to stick to.
But I'd probably be lazy and try a dot of super glue first.
I always clean the surface with some alcohol and haven't had much issue with labels. But if you have cheap labels with lousy adhesive that could be part of the problem.
I just put a label on my recent print of a card game box and it's stuck like a champ.
If thats the label brand I think it is, it will not stick to anything. Also after a few years it just falls off
You could try (try it on one container at first to experiment) spraying a few layers of clear coat on it. That should fill all the micro gaps and create a smooth surface for the label glue to grab on to.
Never tried this but I'd give adhesion promoter a try
I use modge podge. It dries clear and sticks
I'd hole punch my labels and screw it into the print, a bit extra but lasts forever and visually looks quite clean
Assuming this is the side wall? Ironed tops or smooth PEI printed bottoms works fine with labels, but side walls is sort of a losing battle for labels unless you want to use some kind of gummy adhesive or glue - aka too much trouble. A fix for the design itself is to print a flat piece face doen you then insert into a sidewall crevice and glue it in place to adhere labels to. Since these are already done, it depends if you want to change the labels later or not. If you want to replace them later I’d consider this: 1. CA glue down a blank label wide enough for any label you’d place here 2. adhere your label to the blank glued down one and peel off later without damage.
Place the labels and brush some clear epoxy on them.
Spray 77
Just put some plastic primer on the PLA part where you want the label to stick.
3M adhesion promoter
Put clear tape on top
Why don't you print the name directly on the box?
This often happens when using DYMO labels. Never happens with my Brady running vinyl labels.
Contact cement
Glue?
Can you print the text vs adding a label. Black sharpie will make it pop.
3M Primer 94 might work, it made the stickers on my kayak bond very well, so well that when I remove them the adhesive peels off the back of the sticker and I have to clean off with a solvent.
Find some high bond printable vinyl
As many others have already said: Labels only stick to flat surfaces. As this isn't flat, perhaps you could sand it down a little?
You could try ironing in future, as this will help with the micro gaps in the layer lines..
Strange, have you tried wiping the area with alcohol? I couldn't imagine the layer lines being the reason a sticker doesnt, well, stick.
I don't understand why everyone is downvoting you. Even if that isn't the right solution (to be clear I have no idea), it seems wildly unjustified to downvote your comment.
Glue, tape, making label holders.
These labels are out of a label maker and have an adhesive backing. I have never had a problem sticking them to anything in the past.
They require a flat surface to stick too, so either fill and prime or use another method.
What brand label stock? My label maker is a Brother brand, and they offer both normal and "strong adhesive" tape in some sizes. I've found the "strong adhesive" version sticks pretty well to prints, while the regular stuff peels off.
Its an old P-Touch. Not sure the model.
P-Touch is made by Brother, so check the Brother website to see if any of the tape cartridges used by your model come in the "Strong Adhesive" variant. It holds far better than the regular adhesive.
You have the technology to emboss the label into the box. Why not just do that? I suppose you just want to make use of those you already printed, but something to consider in future projects.
Because i need to do 100s of these..
The embossing would be part of the 3d print. It would take you less time than printing and gluing separate labels.
that makes no sense. I would have to customize the embossing for each box. Yes you can add lettering in the slicer but it would be an insanely involved process to track everything as you print and reslice with new lettering for each box.
If I use a label maker I can slice once and just reprint batches over and over.
For a handful of boxes sure embossing would be cool, but I already told you I need to do hundreds.
I'm really not trying to be obtuse here. I'm just eally not getting how it's any more effort than copying a bunch of boxes, then opening another program and typing the labels, printing them, peeling and sticking them to the box, and then doing some other post processing to keep them from peeling off the box. Create one box that's embossed. Copy it as many times as you want. Then just change the text, same as typing it onto labels.
Either way you've got to type the names and keep track of what ones you have done.
Superglue
glue
White glue should work
Emboss labels into the actual print
If I didn't need to do a million of these then that would be my preferred option.
Maybe you could try hitting them with a heat gun to see if you can get the label to relax and the glue to get a better adhesion.
May I recommend laser engraving if the label doesn't change